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	<title>Comments on: 50 Cocoon Challenge &#8211; Update #3</title>
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	<link>http://www.redwormcomposting.com/fun-stuff/50-cocoon-challenge-update-3/</link>
	<description>Red Wiggler Worms, European Nightcrawlers and loads of helpful Worm Composting Information</description>
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		<title>By: Bentley</title>
		<link>http://www.redwormcomposting.com/fun-stuff/50-cocoon-challenge-update-3/comment-page-1/#comment-21900</link>
		<dc:creator>Bentley</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 22 Jul 2009 16:41:13 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.redwormcomposting.com/?p=863#comment-21900</guid>
		<description>DUFF - there definitely isn&#039;t any specific way to handle cocoons, nor do you need to be overly careful about keeping conditions the same. Remember, this is the most resistant, easily-adapted stage of a worm&#039;s lifecycle so they can put up with quite a lot of abuse (just don&#039;t squish them - haha).
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ROBYN/BERWICK - Do let me know if you repeat the experiment. I&#039;ll certainly be interested to compare results with others (make sure to note temperature where bins are sitting though - this could make a big difference).
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DON - that is really interesting (re: horse manure and gardening), and definitely makes sense. Not only is horse manure pretty fibrous, high C:N stuff, but it&#039;s also typically mixed with bedding materials making the overall C:N even higher. What&#039;s cool about the Red Worms is that they accelerate the breakdown of this material, freeing up lots of plant available nutrients. So while I would imagine that horse manure simply added to the garden might not be all that great, horse manure added to a very active in situ vermicomposting system should be more effective. That would actually be a really fun experiment (comparing the two situations)...hmmmm
8)</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>DUFF &#8211; there definitely isn&#8217;t any specific way to handle cocoons, nor do you need to be overly careful about keeping conditions the same. Remember, this is the most resistant, easily-adapted stage of a worm&#8217;s lifecycle so they can put up with quite a lot of abuse (just don&#8217;t squish them &#8211; haha).<br />
&#8212;&#8211;<br />
ROBYN/BERWICK &#8211; Do let me know if you repeat the experiment. I&#8217;ll certainly be interested to compare results with others (make sure to note temperature where bins are sitting though &#8211; this could make a big difference).<br />
&#8212;&#8211;<br />
DON &#8211; that is really interesting (re: horse manure and gardening), and definitely makes sense. Not only is horse manure pretty fibrous, high C:N stuff, but it&#8217;s also typically mixed with bedding materials making the overall C:N even higher. What&#8217;s cool about the Red Worms is that they accelerate the breakdown of this material, freeing up lots of plant available nutrients. So while I would imagine that horse manure simply added to the garden might not be all that great, horse manure added to a very active in situ vermicomposting system should be more effective. That would actually be a really fun experiment (comparing the two situations)&#8230;hmmmm<br />
 <img src='http://www.redwormcomposting.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_cool.gif' alt='8)' class='wp-smiley' /> </p>
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		<title>By: Don H</title>
		<link>http://www.redwormcomposting.com/fun-stuff/50-cocoon-challenge-update-3/comment-page-1/#comment-21879</link>
		<dc:creator>Don H</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 18 Jul 2009 17:01:22 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.redwormcomposting.com/?p=863#comment-21879</guid>
		<description>Horse manure isn&#039;t popular with gardeners, (I understand it is low on nitrogen, full of weed seeds etc) but ideal for worm composting. Last week I tilled the perimeter of my cousin&#039;s horse manure pile and to my surprise it was dry and fluffy and no odor. I brought a large quantity home for my garden and will now use some for a worm bin. I&#039;ll also add my Starbucks coffee grounds to see how they work together with normal home waste. Because of your suggestions, I&#039;ll start this new bin with cocoons only. Thanks for all the excellent input! Don H</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Horse manure isn&#8217;t popular with gardeners, (I understand it is low on nitrogen, full of weed seeds etc) but ideal for worm composting. Last week I tilled the perimeter of my cousin&#8217;s horse manure pile and to my surprise it was dry and fluffy and no odor. I brought a large quantity home for my garden and will now use some for a worm bin. I&#8217;ll also add my Starbucks coffee grounds to see how they work together with normal home waste. Because of your suggestions, I&#8217;ll start this new bin with cocoons only. Thanks for all the excellent input! Don H</p>
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		<title>By: Berwick Worm Farm and Waste Systems</title>
		<link>http://www.redwormcomposting.com/fun-stuff/50-cocoon-challenge-update-3/comment-page-1/#comment-21841</link>
		<dc:creator>Berwick Worm Farm and Waste Systems</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 13 Jul 2009 16:10:51 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.redwormcomposting.com/?p=863#comment-21841</guid>
		<description>Ive tryed this with my worms, I took out some of the cocoons anf put them in a small container by themselves and wached them closely. Quite interesting. Ill do this again and see how long it takes on to mature.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Ive tryed this with my worms, I took out some of the cocoons anf put them in a small container by themselves and wached them closely. Quite interesting. Ill do this again and see how long it takes on to mature.</p>
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		<title>By: Berwick Worm Farm and Waste Systems</title>
		<link>http://www.redwormcomposting.com/fun-stuff/50-cocoon-challenge-update-3/comment-page-1/#comment-21840</link>
		<dc:creator>Berwick Worm Farm and Waste Systems</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 13 Jul 2009 16:02:42 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.redwormcomposting.com/?p=863#comment-21840</guid>
		<description>Every body has a different idea on worms, worm tea and compost. Some people just throw there leftover vegetables in a water bucket and let them soak, then use this for a liquid fertilizer</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Every body has a different idea on worms, worm tea and compost. Some people just throw there leftover vegetables in a water bucket and let them soak, then use this for a liquid fertilizer</p>
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		<title>By: robyn</title>
		<link>http://www.redwormcomposting.com/fun-stuff/50-cocoon-challenge-update-3/comment-page-1/#comment-21836</link>
		<dc:creator>robyn</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 12 Jul 2009 13:13:18 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.redwormcomposting.com/?p=863#comment-21836</guid>
		<description>I am very interested in your experiment..I am also surprised at how quickly your juveniles have matured, i also thought it takes about 3 months in ideal conditions. But maybe not...I guess the best way to confirm maturity would be when you have evidence of a new lot of cocoons in your bin. 
I have a homemade raised worm bed about 60cm x 150cm and am trying to havest my first lot of castings. I started with 8000 juveniles about 1- 2mths old, these weighed 1.2kg and i have had them for about 6 -7 mths. I am weighing all the worms as i am pulling them out. i have only just started today and so far using the light method have pulled out 700g from about 2 buckets full of bedding. I estimate there to be about 6kg of worms in that bed, but this is just a guess. I also do not want to not waste the cocoons, so am putting them aside for month or so to collect the hatchlings. I guess i could easily repeat your experiment to see if i get the same rapid growth as you did.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I am very interested in your experiment..I am also surprised at how quickly your juveniles have matured, i also thought it takes about 3 months in ideal conditions. But maybe not&#8230;I guess the best way to confirm maturity would be when you have evidence of a new lot of cocoons in your bin.<br />
I have a homemade raised worm bed about 60cm x 150cm and am trying to havest my first lot of castings. I started with 8000 juveniles about 1- 2mths old, these weighed 1.2kg and i have had them for about 6 -7 mths. I am weighing all the worms as i am pulling them out. i have only just started today and so far using the light method have pulled out 700g from about 2 buckets full of bedding. I estimate there to be about 6kg of worms in that bed, but this is just a guess. I also do not want to not waste the cocoons, so am putting them aside for month or so to collect the hatchlings. I guess i could easily repeat your experiment to see if i get the same rapid growth as you did.</p>
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		<title>By: Selene</title>
		<link>http://www.redwormcomposting.com/fun-stuff/50-cocoon-challenge-update-3/comment-page-1/#comment-21832</link>
		<dc:creator>Selene</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 12 Jul 2009 00:21:40 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.redwormcomposting.com/?p=863#comment-21832</guid>
		<description>Hey Bentley,
I&#039;ve never seen any cocoons in my worm bins but I know that they&#039;re there cause I keep seeing baby worms. And not just a couple at that! They&#039;re all over in the oldest bin. My question to you is: where do you find most of the cocoons to be in your bins? In the dryer top layer to the wettest bottom layer?
Also, I was wondering about composted manure that you buy in any of the big box stores. Is this in any way comparable to the manure you get from a farm and compost yourself? Or is this too much like soil to work as a bedding/food for the worms?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hey Bentley,<br />
I&#8217;ve never seen any cocoons in my worm bins but I know that they&#8217;re there cause I keep seeing baby worms. And not just a couple at that! They&#8217;re all over in the oldest bin. My question to you is: where do you find most of the cocoons to be in your bins? In the dryer top layer to the wettest bottom layer?<br />
Also, I was wondering about composted manure that you buy in any of the big box stores. Is this in any way comparable to the manure you get from a farm and compost yourself? Or is this too much like soil to work as a bedding/food for the worms?</p>
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		<title>By: Duff in VT</title>
		<link>http://www.redwormcomposting.com/fun-stuff/50-cocoon-challenge-update-3/comment-page-1/#comment-21826</link>
		<dc:creator>Duff in VT</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 10 Jul 2009 23:31:23 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.redwormcomposting.com/?p=863#comment-21826</guid>
		<description>Bentley, I have never seen this question posed. Is there any particular way you should handle a cocoon?  Can you just pick them up and transfer from one container to another?  Should the climate in the second container be similar to the first, etc.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Bentley, I have never seen this question posed. Is there any particular way you should handle a cocoon?  Can you just pick them up and transfer from one container to another?  Should the climate in the second container be similar to the first, etc.</p>
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		<title>By: Bentley</title>
		<link>http://www.redwormcomposting.com/fun-stuff/50-cocoon-challenge-update-3/comment-page-1/#comment-21823</link>
		<dc:creator>Bentley</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 10 Jul 2009 14:20:17 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.redwormcomposting.com/?p=863#comment-21823</guid>
		<description>JOHN - definitely not. This bin has a lid on it and is sitting a good distance away from any systems that might pose an invasion risk.
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BERWICK - I am surprised too! I&#039;ve heard of entire worm growing approaches that rely upon bucket growing for at least part of the worms lifecycle, so I imagine they must be ok (assuming no lid). I&#039;m not a major fan of buckets myself though for exactly that reason (limited surface area)</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>JOHN &#8211; definitely not. This bin has a lid on it and is sitting a good distance away from any systems that might pose an invasion risk.<br />
&#8212;&#8211;<br />
BERWICK &#8211; I am surprised too! I&#8217;ve heard of entire worm growing approaches that rely upon bucket growing for at least part of the worms lifecycle, so I imagine they must be ok (assuming no lid). I&#8217;m not a major fan of buckets myself though for exactly that reason (limited surface area)</p>
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		<title>By: Berwick Worm Farm and Waste Systems</title>
		<link>http://www.redwormcomposting.com/fun-stuff/50-cocoon-challenge-update-3/comment-page-1/#comment-21820</link>
		<dc:creator>Berwick Worm Farm and Waste Systems</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 10 Jul 2009 11:30:49 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.redwormcomposting.com/?p=863#comment-21820</guid>
		<description>I thought it took 3-4 months for worms to mature? I am raising my worms in 5 gal. sheet rock buckets. Do you think the buckets have enough surface area?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I thought it took 3-4 months for worms to mature? I am raising my worms in 5 gal. sheet rock buckets. Do you think the buckets have enough surface area?</p>
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		<title>By: John</title>
		<link>http://www.redwormcomposting.com/fun-stuff/50-cocoon-challenge-update-3/comment-page-1/#comment-21818</link>
		<dc:creator>John</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 09 Jul 2009 23:10:22 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.redwormcomposting.com/?p=863#comment-21818</guid>
		<description>Bently...Is it possible that some mature worms migrated from another of your bins??</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Bently&#8230;Is it possible that some mature worms migrated from another of your bins??</p>
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