Comments on: Texas Vermicomposting

By: Candin

Candin — Fri, 31 Jul 2009 08:06:08 +0000

Georgina,

That is a shame. Possibly they either escaped or an animal got into the bin. I too am trying to establish an inground bin in Central Texas. I have it all ready with a few redworms in there to try it out before ordering Wigglers.

Please let us know if you discover what happened.

Candin

By: Georgina

Georgina — Fri, 24 Jul 2009 05:58:39 +0000

I’ve had a worm bin for a few months now and my worms were thriving. I live in Southern California and the last few weeks have been especially hot, in the 100’s. I went away for a few days and when I came home all my worms were gone. I’ve kept my bin in a shady spot always. I have no idea what i did wrong. Please someone orient me.

By: Heather

Heather — Thu, 09 Jul 2009 19:08:29 +0000

Thanks, Bentley…that helps a lot. The area is in a long established composting area, and may already have some “wild” reds? We’ll see. I plan to put a window screen mesh on top to keep out Robins, possums, the resident chickens and any other worm thief. That should help screen out the needles also.

By: Bentley

Bentley — Thu, 09 Jul 2009 16:05:11 +0000

Hi Heather,
If you REALLY want to hit the ground running, I’d suggest starting with at least 1/2 lb per sq ft. I’ve read about highly optimized professional systems that have contained more than 1 lb per sq ft, but in my opinion it is definitely better to let your worms to grow into a system rather than forcing them to live in extremely high densities right off the bat (will save you a LOT of money as well).

Your tannins question is a good one – I’m not really sure, but I would be a little nervous about the potent oils in the needles creating issues. Guess it depends on how much of this stuff is falling on the beds.

Your other two ideas sound fine – but not sure how these would stop the needles from falling in. Perhaps you could build a screen lid that would catch them. A system set in the ground somewhat should help to keep the worms cool, but of course it will make harvesting vermicompost a lot more difficult.

Your food ideas sound on target

The moving food line is also a great idea – there is a system (called the “Wedge”) that is based on this exact concept. Essentially you create a pile then extend it into a windrow, gradually leaving behind finished vermicompost and few worms.

By: Heather

Heather — Wed, 08 Jul 2009 22:09:51 +0000

I am planning on setting up a couple of large (20′x5′) outdoor vermicompost areas in the Sept./Oct. time frame.
Questions:
1.How many lbs of worms could I start with in an area that size? Is there some magic formula for optimal number of worms per square foot?
2.The area is shaded by a couple of evergreens–should I be worried about tannins or other residue?
3. Would it be better to dig a trench (how deep are you other Texans digging?), or to set up a straw bale bin and place compost within there?

4.I am planning on using mostly-composted horse stall waste (manure, wood shavings) and adding fruit and veggie waste–possibly from a restaurant. Any issues with that, as long as it is no longer “hot compost”?

I am in the hot Dallas area.

5. One last question…my thought is to add the worms to one end and then place new food scraps ahead of them each time, allowing them to leave vermicompost “behind” them for easier harvesting. Is that feasible or not a workable idea?

Thanks!

By: Bentley

Bentley — Thu, 25 Jun 2009 15:06:28 +0000

MARK & CHRISTY – thanks for sharing your experiences. Great info!

By: Christy Olson

Christy Olson — Sat, 20 Jun 2009 22:45:26 +0000

Wayne,

Having worms outdoors in Texas is not too big of a problem. I have set up several large systems at my parents ranch to compost manure and yard waste. They live by Abilene. The best advice I can give you is to bury about half of your bin or more. The deeper you can get it the better. Our worms are doing great and were cool during last years 107 degree days. Be sure to keep them moist and in the shade.

Good luck on your new bin. I hope it goes smoothly.

Christy

Also remember to cover your bin with something to keep the flies out. They are our biggest problem. I have found that window screen is the best solution and it is pretty cheap.

By: Mark from Kansas

Mark from Kansas — Thu, 18 Jun 2009 21:11:41 +0000

Wayne,
I would suggest that you start small. The Rubbermaid tote and 1000 worms is an inexpensive start. I started my first bin in the garage in the middle of winter (I didn’t want to upset my wife). Well, after tons of research, I moved it inside. I was able to prove that my bin does not smell like anything. Letty agreed that I could move it inside as long as it wasn’t in her way.
I eventualy moved everything outside due to the population explosion of worms. Today the heat index is 105 degrees, my bins are 80 degrees.
My wife now brags about me at work and now people walk past our house and admire her gardens (could it be because of the fertilizer she uses?)
I recently started a new bin with the feeedstock from my composter, it smelled really, really bad and had a lot of bugs in it. In 24 hours the smell was gone and the bugs were to, the outside microwave took care of the bugs and a balanced system never smells. Odors are a sign of something is wrong.
I recently sent off a sample of vermicompost to K State for nutrient values, if the values are as high as I want, I can start selling the vermicompost for about 10.00 a pound. What was once our garbage may be worth 10.00 a pound. Something to think about.
Good luck!