<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?><rss version="2.0"
	xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/"
	xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/"
	xmlns:atom="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom"
	xmlns:sy="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/syndication/"
		>
<channel>
	<title>Comments on: What To Do With Worms While On Vacation</title>
	<atom:link href="http://www.redwormcomposting.com/reader-questions/what-to-do-with-worms-while-on-vacation/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://www.redwormcomposting.com/reader-questions/what-to-do-with-worms-while-on-vacation/</link>
	<description>Red Wiggler Worms, European Nightcrawlers and loads of helpful Worm Composting Information</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Wed, 17 Mar 2010 11:17:32 +0000</lastBuildDate>
	<generator>http://wordpress.org/?v=2.9.2</generator>
	<sy:updatePeriod>hourly</sy:updatePeriod>
	<sy:updateFrequency>1</sy:updateFrequency>
		<item>
		<title>By: Bentley</title>
		<link>http://www.redwormcomposting.com/reader-questions/what-to-do-with-worms-while-on-vacation/comment-page-1/#comment-9963</link>
		<dc:creator>Bentley</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 27 Aug 2008 14:36:42 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.redwormcomposting.com/?p=222#comment-9963</guid>
		<description>Wow - great info, John! Thanks for sharing!
8)</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Wow &#8211; great info, John! Thanks for sharing!<br />
 <img src='http://www.redwormcomposting.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_cool.gif' alt='8)' class='wp-smiley' /> </p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: John Augenstein</title>
		<link>http://www.redwormcomposting.com/reader-questions/what-to-do-with-worms-while-on-vacation/comment-page-1/#comment-9808</link>
		<dc:creator>John Augenstein</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 24 Aug 2008 04:22:57 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.redwormcomposting.com/?p=222#comment-9808</guid>
		<description>I have found (through experience) a fairly safe way to heavy feed a worm bin, maintain moisture levels and not have to mess with it for two to three weeks. This will require having or having access to a good old fashioned pile, bin or tumbler of yard scrap compost that is currently active. You will need to aquire enough compost that is about 1/2 to 3/4 of the way broken down to put a 2 or 3 inch layer over your bin. If the compost is being properly taken care of, it will have about the same moisture level as you keep in your bin and will be full of all kinds of good worm feeding organisms. Cut a piece of black plastic (heavy duty trash bag works) that will fit down inside the bin with a slight gap between the plastic edge and the bin wall (1/2&quot; or so) and lay it directly on top of the compost. This will stop evaporation and keep the bin from drying out for quite a while (4 or 5 weeks).
Handling the compost will have mixed air into it providing fresh oxygen which will keep it from going anaerobic. My longest test of this was a three inch layer for eight weeks using the &quot;lift the plastic and smell it&quot; method with the final result being the worms  (eisinia fetida) completely converted the compost to vermicompost before it could do anything unspeakable. I want to emphasize: the compost must be at a good moisture level and at least 50% broken down. This is a &quot;food rich bedding&quot; rather than &quot;food&quot;. Do not use a plastic cover with material that has not been pre-composted. Fresh kitchen scraps (lettuce, squash, cucumber, tomato, any fruit) is anywhere from 60% to 90% water and you need evaporation to keep your system from going soggy as these materials begin to break down and release that water. If you use this method, I would suggest you make a trial run before you go off on vacation. Best of luck.
John in New Mexico</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I have found (through experience) a fairly safe way to heavy feed a worm bin, maintain moisture levels and not have to mess with it for two to three weeks. This will require having or having access to a good old fashioned pile, bin or tumbler of yard scrap compost that is currently active. You will need to aquire enough compost that is about 1/2 to 3/4 of the way broken down to put a 2 or 3 inch layer over your bin. If the compost is being properly taken care of, it will have about the same moisture level as you keep in your bin and will be full of all kinds of good worm feeding organisms. Cut a piece of black plastic (heavy duty trash bag works) that will fit down inside the bin with a slight gap between the plastic edge and the bin wall (1/2&#8243; or so) and lay it directly on top of the compost. This will stop evaporation and keep the bin from drying out for quite a while (4 or 5 weeks).<br />
Handling the compost will have mixed air into it providing fresh oxygen which will keep it from going anaerobic. My longest test of this was a three inch layer for eight weeks using the &#8220;lift the plastic and smell it&#8221; method with the final result being the worms  (eisinia fetida) completely converted the compost to vermicompost before it could do anything unspeakable. I want to emphasize: the compost must be at a good moisture level and at least 50% broken down. This is a &#8220;food rich bedding&#8221; rather than &#8220;food&#8221;. Do not use a plastic cover with material that has not been pre-composted. Fresh kitchen scraps (lettuce, squash, cucumber, tomato, any fruit) is anywhere from 60% to 90% water and you need evaporation to keep your system from going soggy as these materials begin to break down and release that water. If you use this method, I would suggest you make a trial run before you go off on vacation. Best of luck.<br />
John in New Mexico</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
</channel>
</rss>
