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David’s Tub Harvesting Method


David Lozowsky’s tub harvester


Quite some time ago I made a video and wrote about my ‘Garbage Bag Harvesting Method‘ for separating worms from mature vermicompost. The idea behind this method was that it was a simple, inexpensive, and passive means of transferring worms to a new bin. Anyone who has gone down on all fours with a tarp and the contents of a mature worm bin to do the “light harvesting method” will know all too well that this is not the most enjoyable way to spend your time (speaking of which – I currently use a modified version of the light harvesting method that I will be writing about soon).

I received an email recently from good vermi-friend (and long-time reader of RWC) David Lozowsky, who shared with me his method for separating worms from vermicompost. His method is based on the same principles as the garbage bag method, but in my opinion is a much better approach. Rather than using a thin film of plastic, David simply uses an empty bin (of the exact same dimensions as his worm bins) with 1/4″ holes drilled in the bottom.

Interestingly enough, David uses the exact same bins as me – Rubbermaid Roughneck totes with the following dimensions: 24″x16″x8.75″ (LxWxH). This is as close to a ‘perfect’ DIY tub for vermicomposting as you can get (in my humble opinion) – it’s cheap, durable, holds a lot of worms/compost, and has a great surface-area-to-depth ratio.

Getting back to the topic of discussion…

Essentially, what David does is let a given worm bin mature over the period of time (hopefully he’ll chime in and let us know approx how long it takes before he harvests). As you can see in the pic below, the bin is full of vermicompost with very little (if anything) in the way of recognizable ‘food’. If you saw a close-up of the original photo, you’d see that it was also full of Red Worms.

Once mature, a new system is prepared so that the worms have a tempting new habitat to migrate into (the photo below shows what the new system might look like). The tub harvester is then placed on top of the new system (sans lid, of course) and the contents of the mature bin are added. Next, two desk lamps are positioned over top of the harvesting tub to help encourage the worms to migrate downwards. After 12 hours or so, the material is mixed up to help the compost to dry out a little more and encourage any of the remaining stragglers to make the journey to the new bin.

According to David, this method has worked extremely well – I seem to recall him mentioning that only 5 or so adults were left after his last harvesting session.

Of course, people are going to naturally wonder about cocoons and hatchling worms – always the main issue when it comes to harvesting vermicompost. Like any other method, this approach will almost certainly result in plenty of cocoons and young worms being left behind. If this is a major concern I suggest letting the material sit for at least a few weeks in a new bin with some tempting food material (aged manure, water melon etc) sitting on top. Any worms left over should congregate in this area, and there should be some hatching of the cocoons as well. You won’t likely get every last one, but at least you’ll be able save a lot of little wigglers this way.

I personally don’t worry too much about this sort of thing. I have such an extensive system of trenches and compost ecosystem zones out in my yard that I feel secure in the knowledge that any left over worms will be able to find a safe haven without too much difficulty.

Anyway – that’s basically it. As you can see, this is a nice easy (and inexpensive) way to move your worms to a new bin, and end up with some fantastic compost in the process!

Thanks again David for allowing me to share this on the blog.
8)


All images courtesy of David Lozowsky, Brampton Ontario

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Written by Bentley on June 18th, 2009 with 7 comments.
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Get your own gravatar by visiting gravatar.com Cindy Anthony
#1. June 19th, 2009, at 12:28 AM.

Thanks… this is an idea I can work with. I was struggling with the logistics of the whole bag with holes scenario. I also use these totes and I have an extra right now…so drill time.

Get your own gravatar by visiting gravatar.com Cindy Anthony
#2. June 29th, 2009, at 1:22 AM.

This is working great! I made a bin as described. I put my new bedding in a larger bin with newspaper, peat moss, and food scraps. then placed the transfer bin on top and dumped my aged worm bin into the transfer bin. I put a screen top over the bin with a 100 watt light bulb. Like you might see on a lizard cage. It has been 24 hours, and when I checked the aged bin tonight there are very few worms left. I found a couple food clusters & broke them up. I think by tomorrow the transfer will be done! 100% improvement over my prior method of picking and hand sorting. Thanks for the practical idea.

Get your own gravatar by visiting gravatar.com Ann Monroe
#3. July 14th, 2009, at 8:44 PM.

This method is even easier than he says, as you don’t really need the lights. We just left the top off and stirred the bin up several times a day. It took longer, but within 4-5 days most of the worms had moved down. At which point we put the lid on the bottom bin and put the old bin on top of it; any remaining worms crawled out onto the lid and were easily brushed into the new bin. MUCH easier than any other harvesting method I’ve seen.

Get your own gravatar by visiting gravatar.com rusty mounsey
#4. September 7th, 2009, at 12:33 PM.

I used a small id metal screen and just layed it on top of the new bedding turned on the light and the worms went down took the top layer every 2-3 hrs done in a day 2- 5gl buckets full

Get your own gravatar by visiting gravatar.com Bentley
#5. September 10th, 2009, at 2:05 PM.

Thanks everyone for chiming in with your results!
8)

Get your own gravatar by visiting gravatar.com Chris
#6. March 4th, 2010, at 3:10 PM.

This looks great but I am wondering whether you couldn’t put the new bin on TOP of the old one, with something tasty in it, and let them migrate upwards. You wouldn’t need a light. Would that work?

Get your own gravatar by visiting gravatar.com Bentley
#7. March 11th, 2010, at 3:00 PM.

I’m sure this could work as well, Chris! You certainly don’t “need” a light with the other approach – it’s simply a suggestion to help speed up the process.
Not sure if it was you who emailed about this, but someone commented on the fact that worms naturally move up anyway, so it would be interesting to do a comparison of the two approaches and see which works better.
I think that’s a great idea!
8)

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