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How Many Worms Is Enough?

A lot of people who are thinking about getting into vermicomposting wonder (understandably) what quantity of worms they should start with. There are plenty of recommendations out there but really, no one suggestion is necessarily better than the next. As such, I thought this might make for a good topic of discussion.

In a nutshell (and in my humble opinion), the quantity of worms you start with entirely depends on what you are trying to do, and how quickly you are trying to do it. I’ll be honest – I used to wholeheartedly subscribe to the idea that worms should be allowed to “grow into their system”. In other words, you start a bin with relatively low densities of worms (less than the standard ‘1 lb per square foot’ recommendation), and simply allow the worm population to gradually increase over time, presumably reaching a ‘carrying capacity’ for the given system at some point.

I definitely still see value in this approach, but now that I have my own worm business and have played around with dense concentrations of worms, I’ve come to recognize the composting power of putting a LOT of worms in a relatively small system! You may recall the post I wrote after putting 5 lbs of worms in a “holding bin” for a couple weeks while I was away this past Spring (see “5 lbs of Red Worms – WOW!”). When I arrived back home I couldn’t believe how thoroughly they had processed the upper levels of bedding and food waste. I also couldn’t get over the number of cocoons I found.

For anyone interested in building a large population for their own use or to sell, this is definitely something to consider. I ended up harvesting a large proportion of the worms in the ‘holding system’, but it is now crawling with countless juvenile worms that hatched out from all those cocoons. I suspect that keeping worms so densely packed not only increases the opportunity for mating (they certainly don’t need to look far for a partner), but it also triggers the breeding urge to help protect against the possibility of a population crash (something that might occur in a ‘wild’ population). If you set up a series of identical bins and then simply moved most of your adult population from one bin to the next – leaving them to sit for a couple weeks in each – you could potentially end up with a serious worm nursery (good thing they don’t need diaper changes – haha), while still maitaining a large proportion of your original stock.

Anyway, I’m kinda going off on a tangent here…

Back to the topic of ‘more vs less’. Let’s look at a breakdown of the advantages/disadvantages of starting with more worms.

As I’ve discovered many times myself, when you start small there is a much greater chance that other worm bin inhabitants will become ‘major players’ in the system, thus potentially limiting the upper size limit of the worm population. It can also be frustrating for a newcomer to sit and wait for their worms to get settled in and then grow in numbers before being able to REALLY witness the true power of vermicomposting. Don’t get me wrong – this approach may be perfect for some.

If you are a person who really wants to test out vermicomposting, but you don’t mind (or you even prefer) doing so in a leisurely manner, then starting small is the best way to go. Just set up a bin add a small batch of worms or even cocoons for that matter, and then simply add food materials every once in awhile (or don’t add any more food at all – the worms will consume all the bedding if the ‘normal’ food supply gets cut off, and will likely be totally fine for months).

If on the other hand you need (or at least want) results FAST, then starting with a larger population is definitely the way to go. In some ways, I suspect that many of the newcomer nightmares would be avoided if people simply set up their system well initially and added a decent quantity of worms. There would be less chance of overfeeding – which alone leads to many other issues – such as pest populations, anaerobic conditions, fungal spore production etc – and people would more quickly see how cool vermicomposting is. This approach does require more involvement though – so it’s a trade-off!

Anyway – just my thoughts on the matter. I’d be interested in hearing what others think about all this.
8)

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Written by Bentley on July 29th, 2008 with 16 comments.
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16 comments

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Get your own gravatar by visiting gravatar.com Sherry
#1. July 30th, 2008, at 12:58 AM.

Hi Bentley,
I started out with 1 lb, lost most due to an unfortunate accident, then bought 5 lb. I decided very early on that 1 lb wasn’t going to consume the amount of food we can create for them. I do have my worms divided out into 4 bins, some with more worms than the other.

That would be a very interesting experiment…..moving the worms into 1 bin for a few weeks, then on to the next. I never would have thought that. It wouldn’t be simply upending the bin into another, would it? I definitely want to try this. Maybe having a large bin population might keep my mite problem at bay that I currently have in one bin?

Get your own gravatar by visiting gravatar.com Jerry Gach
#2. July 30th, 2008, at 1:59 AM.

Bentley,

Interesting blog! I can’t say I have ever seen this topic discussed as well as you have written here.

Vermicomposting with a small amount of worms is like trying to dig a swimming pool with a shovel! ;)

I gotta run, I have basketball sized green squash that need tending to.

Thanks Worms!

Get your own gravatar by visiting gravatar.com Dwayne Clark
#3. July 30th, 2008, at 2:17 AM.

Hey B

On that topic I raised about when to harvest:: This question about how many worms is right crossed my mind. I wondered if I had started with more worms would I have been further along. I speculate yes but I am glad I started smaller land let the worm acclimate and reproduce. The bin seems very healthy and it is getting there just a little slower than I thought. Of course it has been brutally hot which may have slowed them down on eating too.

Good post and I did pass it on to some others in the Vermicomposters.com as they had questions about this.

Dwayne

Get your own gravatar by visiting gravatar.com vermiman
#4. July 30th, 2008, at 4:59 AM.

When starting small, I would suggest that the container be started small which should allow the worms to find each other easier.

Get your own gravatar by visiting gravatar.com Bentley
#5. July 30th, 2008, at 1:54 PM.

Thanks everyone for chiming in! Clearly this is a topic that gets people’s attention!

Sherry, my nursery idea would definitely require more than simply dumping each bin into the next, so it would require some work (separating worms each time) for sure. You would want to leave all the material/cocoons in each bin after the worms have gone to work in it so it could then become a worm nursery. You’d obviously lose some of your adults in each of the bins, but I would imagine you’d still be able to separate quite a few from your final bin (assuming you didn’t just leave them in that one)

B

Get your own gravatar by visiting gravatar.com L.Bo Marie
#6. July 30th, 2008, at 8:27 PM.

so.. all that said… “starting small” assuming a regular rubbermaid bin was the home… would be 1/2lb? on the vermicomposting forum someone thought that around 2lbs would be about right for numbers in a bin…(used some formula?)

hmmmm…. I like the nursery idea…

Get your own gravatar by visiting gravatar.com Karen
#7. July 30th, 2008, at 8:54 PM.

I started a small worm bin about two months ago with a small container and not too many worms (around 1 lb). I have been disappointed with their slow progress and keep rooting for them to reproduce since they’re not keeping up with how much I am feeding them. I didn’t realize how much food waste I was throwing out before but it is a lot more than I thought! I haven’t noticed any odors or other problems (besides some ants) so I have been just letting them be. I think your post convinced me to just buy more worms to get the results I want!!

Get your own gravatar by visiting gravatar.com Jill
#8. July 31st, 2008, at 2:29 PM.

I started with one pound of worms last August in a small home made bin and estimate I have around 10-12 pounds now in a wigwam.

The great thing I found by starting small was it gave me lots of time to plan and research what was best to do next. I am starting a small business for castings, and my slow moving worms gave me plenty of time to take classes, talk to others, read books about it, etc., etc.

Get your own gravatar by visiting gravatar.com Bentley
#9. July 31st, 2008, at 4:58 PM.

Wow – this really seems to be a popular topic of discussion. Thanks everyone for sharing your thoughts.

Jill – you’ve made some excellent points! When someone is thinking about starting up their own worm farming business I almost always recommend starting small (although starting small in that case could mean 5 lbs of worms instead of 100 lbs). Great to hear that you were able to build your population up like that. Should be interesting to see how many worms you have by NEXT year!
8)

Get your own gravatar by visiting gravatar.com Sherry
#10. July 31st, 2008, at 8:57 PM.

Hi Bentley,
I took all of the worms out of my bin with the mites (they’re relieved!) and put them in another. I then took a chunk of styrofoam and divided my bin some more. There should be a huge difference now in future population, now! And they don’t have to wander to look for someone when they get the urge!

Get your own gravatar by visiting gravatar.com Susan
#11. July 31st, 2008, at 9:00 PM.

There seem to be multiple definitions for ’starting small’. I went to a workshop that started us each off with 1 oz of worms in a plastic planting pot that probably holds about 3/4 of a gallon. I splurged and got 3 oz. It was slow going, but 7 months later I have more than a pound. They still don’t eat everything I produce, but that will come. I guess I’m doing the ‘minimalist’ and ‘frugal’ style of vermicomposting. :-) I’ve been able to start 4 friends with a few oz. each along the way. I can easily tolerate giving away a few oz. I wouldn’t want to give away a half a pound.

Cut the top off of a plastic container for a gallon of milk and poke a few holes in the bottom. Set on an old plate or folger’s can lid and lay another lid over the top. When it’s that small, the other critters can’t take over before the worms are established.

Get your own gravatar by visiting gravatar.com Bentley
#12. August 1st, 2008, at 3:56 AM.

Sounds good Sherry – I’d recommend adding lots of shredded newsprint or cardboard bedding as well. These seem to help stimulate reproduction.

Susan – you are certainly right, and you seem to be one of the “patient” people who enjoys taking your time with vermicomposting.
An entire worm population could literally be started with a single (viable) cocoon if you didn’t mind waiting! Hey, that sounds like an interesting experiment!
;-)

Get your own gravatar by visiting gravatar.com Sherry
#13. August 1st, 2008, at 11:16 AM.

“An entire worm population could literally be started with a single (viable) cocoon if you didn’t mind waiting! Hey, that sounds like an interesting experiment!”

LOL………I sense updates on a new experiment in the near future!!!

Get your own gravatar by visiting gravatar.com Marion Byrd
#14. November 16th, 2009, at 8:22 AM.

Great article, I was curious about using a larger amount of worms for my boxes to increase their population. I’m wanting to sell vermicompost produce by my Red worms and Euros for bait.

May your bins and boxes thrive everyone.

Get your own gravatar by visiting gravatar.com Patrick
#15. February 13th, 2010, at 4:25 PM.

Hey Bentley,

Wondering how things are going now with the dense concentrations.

Get your own gravatar by visiting gravatar.com Bentley
#16. February 16th, 2010, at 7:46 PM.

Hi Patrick,
I don’t have any systems with really high densities of worms at the moment. Over time (assuming you don’t remove some worms to sell or stock another system) the population to adjust itself based on available space and food.

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