<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?><rss version="2.0"
	xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/"
	xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/"
	xmlns:atom="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom"
	xmlns:sy="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/syndication/"
	
	>
<channel>
	<title>
	Comments on: Vermicomposting in Arid Regions	</title>
	<atom:link href="https://www.redwormcomposting.com/reader-questions/vermicomposting-in-arid-regions/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>https://www.redwormcomposting.com/reader-questions/vermicomposting-in-arid-regions/?utm_source=rss&#038;utm_medium=rss&#038;utm_campaign=vermicomposting-in-arid-regions</link>
	<description>WAY Too Much Fun With Worms!</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Tue, 24 Feb 2015 04:26:26 +0000</lastBuildDate>
	<sy:updatePeriod>
	hourly	</sy:updatePeriod>
	<sy:updateFrequency>
	1	</sy:updateFrequency>
	
	<item>
		<title>
		By: Don Brown		</title>
		<link>https://www.redwormcomposting.com/reader-questions/vermicomposting-in-arid-regions/comment-page-1/#comment-44083</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Don Brown]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 24 Feb 2015 04:26:26 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.redwormcomposting.com/?p=3947#comment-44083</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[Teacher:
Try a walkway between your beds, dug out a couple of feet and filled with seasoned horse manure.  Cover the walk way with straw and some tile stepping stones.  Water the walk way as you do the garden.  I have found the worms can migrate as they want, but the horse manure will be their home of choice if it has been seasoned by wetting it down until it stops heating and the interior of the manure is about ambient temp.   When you stat the next crop, scoop out the worm casings into your growing area and refill the walkways.This works for me here in north Phoenix]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Teacher:<br />
Try a walkway between your beds, dug out a couple of feet and filled with seasoned horse manure.  Cover the walk way with straw and some tile stepping stones.  Water the walk way as you do the garden.  I have found the worms can migrate as they want, but the horse manure will be their home of choice if it has been seasoned by wetting it down until it stops heating and the interior of the manure is about ambient temp.   When you stat the next crop, scoop out the worm casings into your growing area and refill the walkways.This works for me here in north Phoenix</p>
]]></content:encoded>
		
			</item>
		<item>
		<title>
		By: Teacher		</title>
		<link>https://www.redwormcomposting.com/reader-questions/vermicomposting-in-arid-regions/comment-page-1/#comment-42408</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Teacher]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 08 Jan 2014 04:32:41 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.redwormcomposting.com/?p=3947#comment-42408</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[Hi Everyone,
I&#039;ve been reading all I can on composting with worms. I&#039;m looking to try it as a class experiment for our school garden here in west Phoenix. We have an outdoor school garden in a semi-secure area but I&#039;d rather not put anything out there that could be stollen or dumped by vandals. We also have a custodian closet I could house something in. However, it would have to be semi portable so I could move it out of the closet to work with the kids and transport it home over the summer.
Does anyone have any recommendations on what I should build, how to build it, and how to keep the worms alive in the Phoenix heat? I&#039;d rather not have to explain why all the worms were &quot;sleeping&quot; then just &quot;ran away&quot; to a classroom of curious elementary school students. I have a budget of $150.
Thanks:-)]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Everyone,<br />
I&#8217;ve been reading all I can on composting with worms. I&#8217;m looking to try it as a class experiment for our school garden here in west Phoenix. We have an outdoor school garden in a semi-secure area but I&#8217;d rather not put anything out there that could be stollen or dumped by vandals. We also have a custodian closet I could house something in. However, it would have to be semi portable so I could move it out of the closet to work with the kids and transport it home over the summer.<br />
Does anyone have any recommendations on what I should build, how to build it, and how to keep the worms alive in the Phoenix heat? I&#8217;d rather not have to explain why all the worms were &#8220;sleeping&#8221; then just &#8220;ran away&#8221; to a classroom of curious elementary school students. I have a budget of $150.<br />
Thanks:-)</p>
]]></content:encoded>
		
			</item>
		<item>
		<title>
		By: Dean Richardson		</title>
		<link>https://www.redwormcomposting.com/reader-questions/vermicomposting-in-arid-regions/comment-page-1/#comment-30051</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Dean Richardson]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 18 Apr 2011 13:41:17 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.redwormcomposting.com/?p=3947#comment-30051</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[I live in Miami, Florida, and am just getting started with worm farming. Last summer we had multiple days with a heat index of 105°. My research into worm farming said that the Indian blue worm (Perionyx excavatus) is the best worm for tropical environments because it stands up the best to heat. I sense that it is also a very despised worm in the worm farming community for various reasons, but wonder if it&#039;s actually the best alternative for South Florida&#039;s subtropical environment. Any thoughts or experiences with tropical worm farming anyone?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I live in Miami, Florida, and am just getting started with worm farming. Last summer we had multiple days with a heat index of 105°. My research into worm farming said that the Indian blue worm (Perionyx excavatus) is the best worm for tropical environments because it stands up the best to heat. I sense that it is also a very despised worm in the worm farming community for various reasons, but wonder if it&#8217;s actually the best alternative for South Florida&#8217;s subtropical environment. Any thoughts or experiences with tropical worm farming anyone?</p>
]]></content:encoded>
		
			</item>
		<item>
		<title>
		By: Jackie		</title>
		<link>https://www.redwormcomposting.com/reader-questions/vermicomposting-in-arid-regions/comment-page-1/#comment-29085</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Jackie]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 16 Feb 2011 04:38:39 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.redwormcomposting.com/?p=3947#comment-29085</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[I live in Phoenix, AZ and have had been successful raising worms both inside and outside (even in the summer!).  The secret in the summer is deep shade and not overloading the bins with organic matter.  I have three plastic bins semi-buried in a raised flower bed on the north side of the house, with styrofoam between the bins and the bricks for a bit of insulation.  I always use a plastic &quot;blanket&quot; with holes poked in it on top of the bin material, in addition to the plastic lid which also has tiny holes in it.  The raised flower bed is covered by wooden trap doors which provide some air circulation and additional shade.  I use wet shredded newspaper as the main environment and, of course, add kitchen scraps.  There are teeny tiny holes in the bottom of the plastic bins but I don&#039;t think they are very successful at draining water from the boxes, as the bin material is always very, very wet.  The worms seem to like it, though.   I have also had success with worm bins that were not even partially buried and were placed under trees in deep shade -- i.e. never received direct or even indirect sunlight.  

I have had problems with worm survival when I tried putting worm bins or worms themselves in my regular compost (I think it was too hot for them and not evenly moist),  with worm beds that weren&#039;t in deep shade, and with worm bins that were kept in the garage (it gets very hot in there in the summer - apparently much hotter than in Jim&#039;s garage in the Mohave Desert).   

In the summer, I cut back on how much I feed the worms (I think they may become semi dormant?) and try do dry their environment out a bit, mostly by mixing dry shredded newspaper into their bin material to absorb some of the excess moisture and also by feeding them less wet fruit waste.  If the worm box material is too wet or too full of very wet organic matter, in the summer here, the worms will cook in the hot moisture.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I live in Phoenix, AZ and have had been successful raising worms both inside and outside (even in the summer!).  The secret in the summer is deep shade and not overloading the bins with organic matter.  I have three plastic bins semi-buried in a raised flower bed on the north side of the house, with styrofoam between the bins and the bricks for a bit of insulation.  I always use a plastic &#8220;blanket&#8221; with holes poked in it on top of the bin material, in addition to the plastic lid which also has tiny holes in it.  The raised flower bed is covered by wooden trap doors which provide some air circulation and additional shade.  I use wet shredded newspaper as the main environment and, of course, add kitchen scraps.  There are teeny tiny holes in the bottom of the plastic bins but I don&#8217;t think they are very successful at draining water from the boxes, as the bin material is always very, very wet.  The worms seem to like it, though.   I have also had success with worm bins that were not even partially buried and were placed under trees in deep shade &#8212; i.e. never received direct or even indirect sunlight.  </p>
<p>I have had problems with worm survival when I tried putting worm bins or worms themselves in my regular compost (I think it was too hot for them and not evenly moist),  with worm beds that weren&#8217;t in deep shade, and with worm bins that were kept in the garage (it gets very hot in there in the summer &#8211; apparently much hotter than in Jim&#8217;s garage in the Mohave Desert).   </p>
<p>In the summer, I cut back on how much I feed the worms (I think they may become semi dormant?) and try do dry their environment out a bit, mostly by mixing dry shredded newspaper into their bin material to absorb some of the excess moisture and also by feeding them less wet fruit waste.  If the worm box material is too wet or too full of very wet organic matter, in the summer here, the worms will cook in the hot moisture.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
		
			</item>
		<item>
		<title>
		By: Chuck Haynes		</title>
		<link>https://www.redwormcomposting.com/reader-questions/vermicomposting-in-arid-regions/comment-page-1/#comment-29045</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Chuck Haynes]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 13 Feb 2011 19:46:55 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.redwormcomposting.com/?p=3947#comment-29045</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[I live in the high desert in Central Oregon and although our temperatures are colder we have many of the same dryness problems.  For my outside bins i started using straw bales for the bounders and a good layer of straw on the top.  I feed from one end and harvest from the other. A photo of my bin is on one of my web pages. http://www.cascadeworms.com/about-us/ and if anyone is interested I could post more.  I have found that this has solved two problems.  The first was moisture control.  I just keep the straw on top moist and the rest takes care of itself.  I do use lots of paper and straw as bedding but I think the insulation of the straw is what keeps the moisture in.  It also help moderate the temperature inside the bin.  We have hot summers, well over 100 F and cold winter nights,sometimes blow 0 F in the winter.  Since I have started this I have had no problems with these bins.  They just keep going and going as long as I keep feeding.  Another problem it has solved for me is the pre-composting problem with heat.  When I add material to the end, if it heats up the worms just stay away until the temperature is right for them and then they move in.  It has been a great design for me.

Chuck]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I live in the high desert in Central Oregon and although our temperatures are colder we have many of the same dryness problems.  For my outside bins i started using straw bales for the bounders and a good layer of straw on the top.  I feed from one end and harvest from the other. A photo of my bin is on one of my web pages. <a href="http://www.cascadeworms.com/about-us/" rel="nofollow ugc">http://www.cascadeworms.com/about-us/</a> and if anyone is interested I could post more.  I have found that this has solved two problems.  The first was moisture control.  I just keep the straw on top moist and the rest takes care of itself.  I do use lots of paper and straw as bedding but I think the insulation of the straw is what keeps the moisture in.  It also help moderate the temperature inside the bin.  We have hot summers, well over 100 F and cold winter nights,sometimes blow 0 F in the winter.  Since I have started this I have had no problems with these bins.  They just keep going and going as long as I keep feeding.  Another problem it has solved for me is the pre-composting problem with heat.  When I add material to the end, if it heats up the worms just stay away until the temperature is right for them and then they move in.  It has been a great design for me.</p>
<p>Chuck</p>
]]></content:encoded>
		
			</item>
		<item>
		<title>
		By: Rick Hossman		</title>
		<link>https://www.redwormcomposting.com/reader-questions/vermicomposting-in-arid-regions/comment-page-1/#comment-29034</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Rick Hossman]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 12 Feb 2011 03:16:51 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.redwormcomposting.com/?p=3947#comment-29034</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[Hi all!

We live in SE Arizona at an altitude of about 4100 feet. The temperatures here are cooler than Tucson and Phoenix, but it gets hot just the same. We have had humidity as low as 5%...in the summer.

I have worms in three locations: two 18 gallon plastic totes in the office, an 18 gallon tote and a black footlocker on the patio and a windrow out in the horse&#039;s &quot;playpen&quot;.

The bedding in the office totes consists of shredded junk mail, newspaper, corrugated cardboard, and Pepsi containers. The worms in these container feast on food scraps. To keep the smell down and the flies away, we bury the scraps under several layers of papers. The worms LOVE it! We also &quot;flip&quot; the contents of the container every few days to keep everything on an even moisture level.

The two containers on the patio have Euros in them. They feed strictly off horse poop. We thought we lost them all in the recent deep freeze we had, but inspection the other day revealed that most have lived.

The compost worms in the windrow have enough room to move around to warm/cooler areas. When the top of the pile gets dried out, we set the water sprinkler on them for an hour or two. These guys, too, get straight horse poop.

Hope this helps!]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi all!</p>
<p>We live in SE Arizona at an altitude of about 4100 feet. The temperatures here are cooler than Tucson and Phoenix, but it gets hot just the same. We have had humidity as low as 5%&#8230;in the summer.</p>
<p>I have worms in three locations: two 18 gallon plastic totes in the office, an 18 gallon tote and a black footlocker on the patio and a windrow out in the horse&#8217;s &#8220;playpen&#8221;.</p>
<p>The bedding in the office totes consists of shredded junk mail, newspaper, corrugated cardboard, and Pepsi containers. The worms in these container feast on food scraps. To keep the smell down and the flies away, we bury the scraps under several layers of papers. The worms LOVE it! We also &#8220;flip&#8221; the contents of the container every few days to keep everything on an even moisture level.</p>
<p>The two containers on the patio have Euros in them. They feed strictly off horse poop. We thought we lost them all in the recent deep freeze we had, but inspection the other day revealed that most have lived.</p>
<p>The compost worms in the windrow have enough room to move around to warm/cooler areas. When the top of the pile gets dried out, we set the water sprinkler on them for an hour or two. These guys, too, get straight horse poop.</p>
<p>Hope this helps!</p>
]]></content:encoded>
		
			</item>
		<item>
		<title>
		By: Jason		</title>
		<link>https://www.redwormcomposting.com/reader-questions/vermicomposting-in-arid-regions/comment-page-1/#comment-29031</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Jason]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 12 Feb 2011 00:07:47 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.redwormcomposting.com/?p=3947#comment-29031</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[On the vermicomposters blogs a discussion about wicking beds came up, and I wonder if this might be the answer to your problem.

It might be worth a look at least.

http://vermicomposters.ning.com/profiles/blogs/growing-my-own-food]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>On the vermicomposters blogs a discussion about wicking beds came up, and I wonder if this might be the answer to your problem.</p>
<p>It might be worth a look at least.</p>
<p><a href="http://vermicomposters.ning.com/profiles/blogs/growing-my-own-food" rel="nofollow ugc">http://vermicomposters.ning.com/profiles/blogs/growing-my-own-food</a></p>
]]></content:encoded>
		
			</item>
		<item>
		<title>
		By: Steve L.		</title>
		<link>https://www.redwormcomposting.com/reader-questions/vermicomposting-in-arid-regions/comment-page-1/#comment-29025</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Steve L.]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 11 Feb 2011 15:42:09 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.redwormcomposting.com/?p=3947#comment-29025</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[I&#039;ve never had the problem with my worm bins &quot;drying out at the speed of light&quot;, but I wonder if you laid a sheet of heavy plastic (cut to the size of the worm bed) on top of the bedding that it would act as a vapor barrier and slow the evaporation.  There would definitely be enough air pockets so the worms wouldn&#039;t suffer that way, and I assume that the bin either has a lid or something that deflects direct sunlight.  Maybe a damp t-shirt/rag/burlap covering directly on top of the bedding followed by the sheet of plastic would be a combination that&#039;d work.

Living in the Pacific Northwest (Portland, OR) I deal with the opposite extreme of having a high humidity, cool climate that forces me to deal with excessive moisture.  In my plastic barrel FT bin I literally have not added additional moisture (like sprayed water) since October of last year.  The moisture from the food and damp bedding I add, plus the insulating layer of dry leaves (12 inches worth) on top of the bedding seems to actually cause excessive condensation.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I&#8217;ve never had the problem with my worm bins &#8220;drying out at the speed of light&#8221;, but I wonder if you laid a sheet of heavy plastic (cut to the size of the worm bed) on top of the bedding that it would act as a vapor barrier and slow the evaporation.  There would definitely be enough air pockets so the worms wouldn&#8217;t suffer that way, and I assume that the bin either has a lid or something that deflects direct sunlight.  Maybe a damp t-shirt/rag/burlap covering directly on top of the bedding followed by the sheet of plastic would be a combination that&#8217;d work.</p>
<p>Living in the Pacific Northwest (Portland, OR) I deal with the opposite extreme of having a high humidity, cool climate that forces me to deal with excessive moisture.  In my plastic barrel FT bin I literally have not added additional moisture (like sprayed water) since October of last year.  The moisture from the food and damp bedding I add, plus the insulating layer of dry leaves (12 inches worth) on top of the bedding seems to actually cause excessive condensation.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
		
			</item>
		<item>
		<title>
		By: Julie		</title>
		<link>https://www.redwormcomposting.com/reader-questions/vermicomposting-in-arid-regions/comment-page-1/#comment-29024</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Julie]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 11 Feb 2011 14:49:32 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.redwormcomposting.com/?p=3947#comment-29024</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[another thought : check the classified ads offline or online (vermicomposters.com, craigslist, kijiji, or whatever you have there) for free worms from other wormers in your area...

 if you go pick them up, you can take a peek at their set-up, and ask questions pertaining to your specific climate....and maybe share back with us the particulars :)]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>another thought : check the classified ads offline or online (vermicomposters.com, craigslist, kijiji, or whatever you have there) for free worms from other wormers in your area&#8230;</p>
<p> if you go pick them up, you can take a peek at their set-up, and ask questions pertaining to your specific climate&#8230;.and maybe share back with us the particulars 🙂</p>
]]></content:encoded>
		
			</item>
		<item>
		<title>
		By: Julie		</title>
		<link>https://www.redwormcomposting.com/reader-questions/vermicomposting-in-arid-regions/comment-page-1/#comment-29023</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Julie]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 11 Feb 2011 14:09:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.redwormcomposting.com/?p=3947#comment-29023</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[I&#039;m not living in a hot arid area. I don&#039;t pretend any of these would apply.  These are just my observations from trying bins and trays in my basement in winter so much drier, where the humidity is down to 30%, according to my cheap cheap humidity reader thinggy. 

I&#039;m not sure yet in what all situations, but I think cardboard dries out faster than newspaper.  Or, it&#039;s always too dry too fast, or too wet and smelly, and anaerobic.

Maybe in this situation,if you don&#039;t have access to compost or vermicompost material, add in a portion of sand and dirt to start up the bin, or on top, to cover the food scraps, so that it retains some humidity from that and from watering? Once the bin is a bit more mature, add vermicompost from down below on top?  

 I&#039;ve only tried cardboard in an open tray (in my basement in winter which gets really dry -for here around 30% humidity),  but the 3 top inches are completely dry an hour after I wet it, and the bottom is soggy and anaerobic and smelling (but the worms love it, they all congregate in the very bottom of that tray in the wet soggy smelly area).

Newspaper, on the other hand, in both open trays  and closed plastic bins, seem to hold on to humidity.  Except in the worm inn, in my basement, it dries in a very short time, no matter how much I wet it , and I gave up on the first 3-4 inches, it&#039;s just crackly newspaper-concrete. Lower it&#039;s still dry, but if I keep giving it food, it doesn&#039;t seem too bad. If I stop putting food it dries up further down. I wet it thoroughly once in a while and hope that some water trickles underneath.

Also, I had a plastic worm bin outside in the shade and somewhat protected area all spring/summer/fall (here in the great white north- so doesn&#039;t apply to your temperatures).  I didn&#039;t add any more newspaper in there after the initial bedding, just put a large piece of cardboard to cover the food I was feeding, fed in grass clippings twice only, maybe some dried corn leaves, or dried plant stems, and left it unattended for long periods of time.  I &quot;unleveled&quot; it, so it wouldn&#039;t accumulate water , one side being very slightly lower than the other (mere millimeters, barely noticeable slope)  Still, the worms would stay in the soggy wet part and not really go up to the somewhat drier spots... at least when I was looking.  There were no holes in the bottom, so no water was lost that way. Lots of ventilation in the cover and top sides. The temps from night to day  would vary from 30F to 60F in the fall or from 40F to 95F in spring/summer (and not vary many of those 95 - and a few days only pushed to 100F with humidity)]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I&#8217;m not living in a hot arid area. I don&#8217;t pretend any of these would apply.  These are just my observations from trying bins and trays in my basement in winter so much drier, where the humidity is down to 30%, according to my cheap cheap humidity reader thinggy. </p>
<p>I&#8217;m not sure yet in what all situations, but I think cardboard dries out faster than newspaper.  Or, it&#8217;s always too dry too fast, or too wet and smelly, and anaerobic.</p>
<p>Maybe in this situation,if you don&#8217;t have access to compost or vermicompost material, add in a portion of sand and dirt to start up the bin, or on top, to cover the food scraps, so that it retains some humidity from that and from watering? Once the bin is a bit more mature, add vermicompost from down below on top?  </p>
<p> I&#8217;ve only tried cardboard in an open tray (in my basement in winter which gets really dry -for here around 30% humidity),  but the 3 top inches are completely dry an hour after I wet it, and the bottom is soggy and anaerobic and smelling (but the worms love it, they all congregate in the very bottom of that tray in the wet soggy smelly area).</p>
<p>Newspaper, on the other hand, in both open trays  and closed plastic bins, seem to hold on to humidity.  Except in the worm inn, in my basement, it dries in a very short time, no matter how much I wet it , and I gave up on the first 3-4 inches, it&#8217;s just crackly newspaper-concrete. Lower it&#8217;s still dry, but if I keep giving it food, it doesn&#8217;t seem too bad. If I stop putting food it dries up further down. I wet it thoroughly once in a while and hope that some water trickles underneath.</p>
<p>Also, I had a plastic worm bin outside in the shade and somewhat protected area all spring/summer/fall (here in the great white north- so doesn&#8217;t apply to your temperatures).  I didn&#8217;t add any more newspaper in there after the initial bedding, just put a large piece of cardboard to cover the food I was feeding, fed in grass clippings twice only, maybe some dried corn leaves, or dried plant stems, and left it unattended for long periods of time.  I &#8220;unleveled&#8221; it, so it wouldn&#8217;t accumulate water , one side being very slightly lower than the other (mere millimeters, barely noticeable slope)  Still, the worms would stay in the soggy wet part and not really go up to the somewhat drier spots&#8230; at least when I was looking.  There were no holes in the bottom, so no water was lost that way. Lots of ventilation in the cover and top sides. The temps from night to day  would vary from 30F to 60F in the fall or from 40F to 95F in spring/summer (and not vary many of those 95 &#8211; and a few days only pushed to 100F with humidity)</p>
]]></content:encoded>
		
			</item>
	</channel>
</rss>

<!--
Performance optimized by W3 Total Cache. Learn more: https://www.boldgrid.com/w3-total-cache/?utm_source=w3tc&utm_medium=footer_comment&utm_campaign=free_plugin

Page Caching using Disk: Enhanced 

Served from: www.redwormcomposting.com @ 2026-06-28 09:27:24 by W3 Total Cache
-->