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Homemade Manure

Worm Food

Don’t worry, this post doesn’t have anything to do with pooping in your worm bin.
;-)

A little while back I wrote about my (relatively) new ‘Vermicomposting Tray‘ systems – one of the steps I’ve taken in an effort to help increase the efficiency of my operation. One of the interesting topics discussed in the comments section of the worm tray post was that of blending food waste – something I’ve been thinking about quite a bit as of late (again, thinking of different ways to increase the efficiency of my systems).

In all honesty, in the past when I’ve been asked about using food puree as a worm food, I’ve tended to warn people about the potential perils of this practice. I certainly had good intentions – after all, if you aren’t careful with wet food pastes you can end up with a nasty anaerobic mess, and potentially even some dead worms. For the most part, I’ve steered clear of blended food over the years for this very reason.

Now that I’m mostly using open systems, and have a lot more experience under my belt I’ve decided to re-visit the food blending notion. There is considerable evidence (presented in the academic literature) to indicate that foods with smaller particle size can dramatically increase worm growth, and (not surprisingly) greatly speed up processing time as well. That being said, decreased particle size can be a double-edged sword, since small particles also have small spaces between them – meaning less air flow and thus greater chance of anaerobic conditions.

To combat this potential issue I’ve been creating what I like to refer to as ‘homemade manure’ – a similar notion to that suggested by one of our readers in the comments section of the post discussed earlier. Basically the idea is to create the best of both worlds – greatly increased surface area of blended food waste, without the sloppy wet mess typically associated with this approach. The result is something like manure – but potentially even more valuable as a worm food.

My dad gave me his old food processor/blender, which has basically been sitting on his cupboard shelf since it was given to him, probably 15-20 years ago (he loves to cook, but I guess not THAT much!). Unfortunately the food processor component doesn’t seem to be working at all. Definitely a bummer – but the silver lining is that the blender seems to be surprisingly powerful (although nothing remotely close to my ‘ultimate’ system).

So how is this ‘manure’ made?

I’ll admit that I’ve been cheating a little bit by actually adding some aged manure (fairly dry stuff, to help absorb excess moisture) into the mix since I have plenty on-hand. You certainly don’t need to do this. Really, all you need is your wet food paste plus something absorbent (preferably carbon-rich), along with something that will inoculate the mix with microbes.

I’ve been using my favourite type of cardboard – ‘egg carton cardboard’ – as the absorbent component. Peat moss, coconut coir, or shredded newspaper would likely all work very well also. In order to inoculate the mix with microbes (assuming you don’t have aged manure) you can use any compost from your bins or backyard composters, or some partially decomposed leaf litter (I think this would be excellent stuff) if you have a forest (or aged leave pile) near by.

I’m realizing that there are endless possibilities for different recipes. I’ve been blending a wide variety of materials – basically anything that ends up in my kitchen scrap holder – without giving it much though, but I do want to start being more selective to see how different mixes perform. As I’ve discovered, blending is a fantastic way to break down and mix in egg shells – not to mention tough fibrous wastes like banana peels.

Thus far I’ve been extremely pleased with the results, to say the least! The worms go crazy for it – more so than actual horse manure I added as a test (although, if I blended and moistened the manure a little more they may have reacted similarly).
The areas where I’ve added the material in the bins are now teeming with worms.

No more waiting months for resistant materials (like carrots, broccoli etc) to get broken down, that’s for sure.
8)

Anyway – as per usual, I will keep you posted on my progress! One thing I’d definitely like to compare is worm growth when fed blended vs non-blended wastes.
Should be interesting.

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Written by Bentley on November 4th, 2008 with 21 comments.
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21 comments

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Get your own gravatar by visiting gravatar.com Kim from Milwaukee
#1. November 4th, 2008, at 3:39 PM.

Yummy!!!

Get your own gravatar by visiting gravatar.com Adam
#2. November 4th, 2008, at 7:23 PM.

I am also chopping up the food wastes (I use a grater attachment in a continuous feed system). I am currently mixing it with leaves. I was trying to use brown paper towels and egg carton cardboard but I an not sure how to get it small enough that the bedding gets composted at an equal rate as the food. I am ending up with the food wastes eaten quickly and the bedding not touched and when I add more food.

How small are you chopping the egg cartons? Are you blending it in the blender with the food or ripping it small and mixing it in after?

Thanks for any insight.

Get your own gravatar by visiting gravatar.com Mary@SimplyForties
#3. November 4th, 2008, at 7:55 PM.

I guess I’m lazy but the reason I have not adopted this system is that I don’t want to have to keep washing my blender! I chop all my food waste pretty small and keep it frozen until I use it. The frozen food breaks down pretty quickly, much more quickly than non-frozen food. Perhaps I’ll have to give the blending idea some more thought!

Get your own gravatar by visiting gravatar.com Sherry
#4. November 4th, 2008, at 9:26 PM.

I started out processing my food prior to freezing. Then got lazy with cleaning my processor and just chopped everything in small pieces. Now I’m back to processing again. I find they do eat the food quicker, and I can get more food in my freezer containers.

I’ve got a bunch of pumpkins out on my balcony, and processing those is definitely the way to go vs. hand chopping, for sure. I’ve fed them fresh pumpkin mixed in with their thawed frozen food and they love it.

I have read that we must be careful processed or blended food doesn’t overheat, but so far, that hasn’t been a problem for me, or the worms.

Get your own gravatar by visiting gravatar.com Bob Packard
#5. November 4th, 2008, at 9:38 PM.

Good stuff Bentley, I’m glad that someone like yourself likes to experiment. The food processor works well for me and there seems to be enough moisture in the process without adding any. The paper I had problem with was the brown coffee filters, so I quit running them through the processor and only use the coffee grounds.

My blend consists primarily of coffee grounds, egg shells, banana peels, vegetable scraps, ie. cucumber peelings, old lettuce, carrots, potatos and peels also leftover green beans.

I’m pretty pleased with both the size and multiplication of the worms in my composting bin. I’m also finding very little requirement for adding moisture. I usually use shredded newspaper and cardboard as a cover material. I soak it for at least 24 hours in water that has set for sometime to leach out any chlorine.

Even though we have lots of furry night critters who visit regularly, because of total lack of odor they do not bother the worm bin. They do like to dig in the regular compost for their snacks and deserts, grubs and what ever is living in there.

I hope that this will add in some small way to your research.

Bob

Get your own gravatar by visiting gravatar.com Mary@SimplyForties
#6. November 4th, 2008, at 9:46 PM.

Sherry – being lazy, I’ve discovered that I don’t need to thaw my scraps first. I put the frozen stuff right in the bin. The thawing process adds moisture. I assume the worms just wiggle off elsewhere until the food is thawed. It sure beats a thawing bowl of goo sitting on the counter. Good idea about processing the pumpkins. Maybe a mixed approach is best.

Get your own gravatar by visiting gravatar.com Tom Fields
#7. November 4th, 2008, at 11:59 PM.

Hi Bentley,
I think you have hit on something with your ground moist chow. it should make controlling moisture in my coverd 10 Gal. Rubbermaid bins easier. I have a bag of leftover Rabbit Food that I would like to grind into my fruit and veggie mix to make a runny paste. The rabbit food is a mix of a lot of different ingredients, but rabbits eat it. Do you have an opinion on the using the rabbit chow as a thickener?

Tom

Get your own gravatar by visiting gravatar.com Kim from Milwaukee
#8. November 5th, 2008, at 8:35 PM.

Ok, now I really feel lazy. I used to blend my scraps, too, but got tired of cleaning out the dadgum blender. I chop my scraps, and the leftover catfood that my cats turn their little noses up to goes into the ziploc bag with my scraps, soaking up some of the liquid. If it gets too mushy, I put some shredded eggcarton/cardboard/paper into the bag as well, letting it mellow a bit before I give it to the wormies. Then I sprinkle a bit of powdered eggshell, top with the bedding of more shredded cardboard and they are quite happy.

Get your own gravatar by visiting gravatar.com Bentley
#9. November 6th, 2008, at 4:55 PM.

Adam – I am ripping the egg carton cardboard down into pieces about the size of a quarter (coin) – some smaller than this. I have blended some in with the wastes, but this only serves to add carbon – obviously doesn’t help the aeration situation. For the most part I am mixing it in afterward to I get the benefits of the bulkier material. Adding fall leaves is a great idea – something I have plans to do myself.

Mary – I definitely hear you re: cleaning the blender – likely one of the reasons I held off for so long with this approach. As mentioned I now have a junker blender I can use as I please, so I don’t have to worry too much about getting it clean (a quick rinse is just fine).

Sherry – I am looking forward to blending my pumpkins too – worms love them (need to be a little careful about adding too much at once though). Good point about the heating – especially important in an enclosed bin. Increased surface area for microbes means a lot more microbial activity and thus more heat. I’ve noticed some extra warmth in the zones where I’ve added my blended wastes, but given the fact that it’s an open, shallow system it certainly hasn’t been anything to worry about.

Bob – thanks for sharing your experience with blending. Sounds like it is really working well for you!

Tom – rabbit food would make for a great worm food, but I would consider it more of an N-rich waste than a C-rich waste, so I’d be cautious about mixing it with food scraps, unless I was also adding a fair amount of shredded paper/cardboard etc.

Kim – your approach sounds like a good one as well. Anything you can do to help the process along is a good thing!
8)

Get your own gravatar by visiting gravatar.com BERWICK WORM FARM
#10. November 13th, 2008, at 10:22 AM.

Ive been using the food processer for awhile. They eat the food quicker but i dont see any increase in size. Does anybody know if you can put red worms and euro nightcrawlers together. Will they mate with each other. If so what does the worm look like and what is it called. I think some of my red worms got in with my euros.

Get your own gravatar by visiting gravatar.com gary
#11. November 25th, 2008, at 5:16 PM.

Dear Bently, Thanks for sharing your story about the manure experiment. The pictures, especially the bowl of manure were unbelievable along with your story. I started thinking about my wife’s reaction to some of my hobbies and associated experiments and I went in to a fit of laughter and started crying. You made my day!

Thanks
Gary

Get your own gravatar by visiting gravatar.com Bentley
#12. November 27th, 2008, at 2:59 PM.

Haha – always glad to help out however I can, Gary!
:lol:

Get your own gravatar by visiting gravatar.com Susan
#13. June 16th, 2009, at 3:41 PM.

I now leave my food processor out by the sink-put all food wastes in during the day & give it a spin–eggs, coffee grounds, veg, etc. Makes it easier for the worms, faster composting, haven’t had any rotting/smells issues at all.
I never add kitty litter/cat poo to my worm bins, but I’m reading about adding manure…somehow the cat thing seems like a bad idea, right?

Get your own gravatar by visiting gravatar.com Candin
#14. September 16th, 2009, at 9:27 PM.

I too have been adding frozen scraps without thawing. I have an outdoor inground bed and just put some shredded newsprint in there with the small hole dug for the feedstock. What is the actual purpose of thawing anyway? In the heat where I live, the frozen stock would seem like a homecoming to the worms. Its like the frozen bottles I out on top of the bed in the summer heat.

The dry newsprint helps to absorb the excess moisture left by the frozen stock.

Regards

Candin

Get your own gravatar by visiting gravatar.com Bentley
#15. September 18th, 2009, at 5:18 PM.

SUSAN – Just noticed that I hadn’t replied! Sorry about that. You are right – adding cat waste to a regular worm bin might not be the best idea! I have a separate system for the task.

———
CANDIN – Thawing is important since this allows the microbes to then quickly invade the materials (since partially broken down from feezing) – it also helps avoid excess water release into your bin. For a summer bin however, adding it frozen is a great idea since it will help to cool the system, and moisture is often needed anyway.

Get your own gravatar by visiting gravatar.com Mark
#16. October 3rd, 2009, at 7:58 AM.

Hi, I have enjoyed this discussion. Some time ago I used to blend my worm food. My wife insisted I buy a separate blender as she didn’t like me using the kitchen one for this purpose. Anyway, I’d got out of the habit, but I am back into it again now in a big way. I tend to blend egg shells, tea-bags, apple cores, banana peel and other nice bits of vegetable matter I pick out of the general composting bin. I have several wormeries so I usually let the mixture sit a while then share it out.

I had been blending egg cartons right in there, but I might stop that and just tear them after reading your comment, Bentley.

I have a question. As well as my composting worms, I have a barrel full of soil in which I keep some soil-dwelling earthworms. This is mainly just for the fun of it, although my father-in-law does sometimes ask me for worms for fishing. I have heard that soil-dwelling worms don’t breed well in captivity – although mine do seem to be multiplying. I generally don’t disturb them at all, and just keep them moist with the occasional addition of some horse-manure or home-made compost. Anyway … I was wondering if they would appreciate some of the “home-made manure” – I have added some and haven’t noticed any ill-effects (ie they’re not crawling up the sides of the barrel in disgust!).
mark

Get your own gravatar by visiting gravatar.com Mark Again
#17. October 6th, 2009, at 8:37 PM.

Well, after doing some googling I found that some anglers do keep lobs. They seem to have had success with pretty traditional wormery bedding (ie shredded cardboard). And they seem to feed them mashed potatoes to fatten them up! Having read this I decided to investigate my soil-bin. I tipped it all out and had a good look through. There were very few worms in the soil that had been in the bottom of the barrel (it’s one of those big blue plastic barrels – sort of like an oil-drum). There were lots of worms in the layers of rotting organic material (horse manure etc). Lots of worms were in there looking very healthy. There were plenty of small worms which I think must have been born in the barrel and some cocoons that were MUCH bigger than composting worm cocoons. Therefore I think that lob worms do breed in “captivity”! Now I have read that the reproductive cycle is very long and that’s why they aren’t really commercially viable. But I am just doing it out of a love of worms anyway. I put some shredded cardboard in my barrel and replace most of the material in which worms were living. I then topped it off with some horse manure. I plan to leave it alone for as long as possible, apart from to feed them of course!

Get your own gravatar by visiting gravatar.com Ann Duncan
#18. October 22nd, 2009, at 2:43 AM.

SO glad to find this post and these comments. Pretty new to vermiculture and have a lot to learn!

One question my on-line searching hasn’t answered fully yet is – how to use horse manure safely in the worm bin.

I have a small box of horse manure a neighbor gave me about a month ago (had dewormed his horses 3 wks prior). It’s harvest time for my worm bin and I’m preparing the new bedding, curious as to what I need to do with the manure before adding it. It’s been sitting in a cardboard box on my back patio.

Any suggestions/advice welcome!

Blessings…

Get your own gravatar by visiting gravatar.com Dan
#19. November 3rd, 2009, at 1:57 PM.

G’Day Vermicomposters!
After a couple of experiments with food and bedding I have found that home made manure (food scraps blended in food processor and horse manure) is the best food for my worms. I have an open bin system and I overcome the aeration problem by using larger pieces of egg carton as my bedding (this also helps during the seperation of castings) the food is digested quicker, the worms reproduce quicker and the castings are seperated more easily. What more could you ask for?

Get your own gravatar by visiting gravatar.com Bentley
#20. November 3rd, 2009, at 7:41 PM.

Thanks for sharing, Dan! I am glad that the homemade manure has worked out so well for you!
8)

Get your own gravatar by visiting gravatar.com Bentley
#21. November 3rd, 2009, at 8:33 PM.

Sorry ANN – I missed your comment there!

I generally caution people about using manure in enclosed worm bins – especially if it hasn’t been aged for all that long. The problem is that it can off-gas ammonia which is very toxic to the worms. With open systems this is not an issue, and as long as the worms have some good habitat to retreat into (assuming the manure isn’t ready yet), they should be totally fine.

If we are talking about fresh manure here, I generally recommend piling it outside and letting it sit for a few weeks or more. You can also actively (hot) compost it for 1-2 weeks prior to vermicompost in order to help stabilize it and get rid of excess ammonia etc.

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