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The Worm Inn Flow-Through System

Easy to Use. Fewer Hassles. Better Compost.

Once upon a time, I made a silly “worm bin” called the “Creepy Pants Vermicomposter“. From a “successful vermicomposting” standpoint, the experiment was a bit of a dud.

But amazingly, it started the ball rolling towards bigger and (much better) things.

Robin Crispe – a regular follower of the RWC site – was somehow inspired by those moldy, “creepy” pants hanging down in my basement.

She got creative, and put her sewing talents to the test, designing a stylish, yet surprisingly-effective vermicomposting system. She called it…(no suspense here)… the Worm Inn!

Robyn eventually decided to move on to other endeavors and the Worm Inn brand is now owned by Jerry Gach, but it is still the same top quality system it has always been. In fact, Jerry has even added some improvements, such as the single zipper (vs double zipper) closure – effectively reducing the chances of flying pests getting in or out.

The Worm Inn

IMPORTANT NOTE: This is the Worm Inn “Mega” (see how it compares to the Regular model below) – and the wooden stand is not included (but plans to build it are)

The Problem With Most Plastic, Enclosed Worm Bins…

…Is that they just don’t have the air flow required for an “optimized” vermicomposting process!

Don’t get me wrong. I’m not trying to convince you that you can’t vermicompost effectively with other systems. That’s absolutely NOT true!

But I have a hunch I’m not the only one who has dumped out a plastic tub system, only to find a congealed mass of sludge that looks something like this:

This is what happens in a system without sufficient air flow (not to mention drainage)! Unfortunately, these are exactly the sorts of systems that new vermicomposters typically start with.

When You Optimize the Process You Optimize the Results!

(You also optimize the experience!)

Plain and simple – it’s a lot more fun when vermicomposting works (and works well)!

With a Worm Inn you can process more of your kitchen scraps, converting them into high quality vermicompost, faster!

And let’s face it…as “fun” as the vermicomposting process can be (at the best of times), at the end of the day, most of us are after the end products…

The beautiful, rich “black gold”…

…which helps us grow BIG healthy plants

…and heaps of our own nutritious “organic” produce!

The Worm Inn – Features at a Glance

The Worm Inn

** Helpful Worm Inn Resources **

1) Worm Inn Q&A
2) Worm Inn Mega vs VermBin24

3) “What You Need to Know About Worm Inns” – I finally decided to stop procrastinating and create an in-depth guide all about Worm Inns.


Inside you will find lots of information about how to best set up and use this flow-through system. Here are some of the topics covered:

Access the guide >>HERE<<

Both Worm Inns are currently available in four attractive designs. We also have some options for those interested in ordering a Worm Inn with worms. Just so you know, the system will be sent separately (before) the worms, giving you a chance to get it set up before your wigglers arrive.

If you DO plan to buy worms with these systems, please make sure you have read my ‘Fine Print’ & ‘Additional Info’ sections before ordering.

Worm Inn Designs
Available Designs: Plum, Brown, Camo, Port, Green

Note: The corner pieces and zip ties that come in the (Regular Worm Inn) stand kit are white – these stands (in picture) have been painted black.


  1. All prices below INCLUDE shipping to anywhere in continental U.S.A. (If you are in Canada, you CAN buy a Worm Inn Mega from my Worm Composting Canada website).
  2. Again, if you chose to order a Worm Inn with worms (via Red Worm Composting website) you will receive two separate packages (the Worm Inn will arrive before the worms).
  3. When you order a Regular Worm Inn (or Regular Worm Inn + Worms) you will also receive the PVC stand kit (8 corner pieces and 4 zip ties) – the lengths of 3/4″ PVC can be purchased at your local hardware store (likely $5-10 vs $20+ if we had to ship them to you). To learn more about building a PVC stand, be sure to read this blog post: “Worm Inn Journal – 08-02-10
  4. All Worm Inn Purchases include plans for a easy-to-build (but high quality) wooden stand. It was originally designed for the Mega, but I have since added information on creating a similar stand for the Regular model
  5. Worm Inn Megas no longer include the PVC stand kit – while I was impressed with how well the PVC stand supported the larger system, once I started using the wooden stand I realized there was NO comparison!

  6. IF you plan to order a Regular Worm Inn but DON’T want the PVC stand kit, feel free to email me (before ordering) and I’ll provide you with a discount code.

  7. Make sure you have selected the color you want from the drop down options. If you simply click “buy now” the default option (brown) will be selected and that is the color you will receive.

*** The “Regular” Worm Inn ***

Worm Inn - No Worms
Worm Inn - No Worms
Worm Inn + Stand Kit (8 PVC corner pieces + 4 zip ties) - includes U.S. shipping
Price: $89.00
Color :

Worm Inn + 1 lb of Red Worms
Worm Inn + 1 lb of Red Worms
Worm Inn + Stand Kit (8 PVC corner pieces + 4 zip ties) + 1 lb of Red Worms - includes U.S. shipping (system and worms shipped separately)
Price: $117.00
Color :

Worm Inn + 2 lb of Red Worms
Worm Inn + 2 lb of Red Worms
Worm Inn + Stand Kit (8 PVC corner pieces + 4 zip ties) + 2 lb of Red Worms - includes U.S. shipping (system and worms shipped separately)
Price: $132.00
Color :

*** The Worm Inn Mega ***

People have raved about the original Worm Inn! Whether it’s the composting speed, the ease of use, the quality of the castings – or one of numerous other fantastic benefits – most users have found the system to be a breath of fresh air (often literally – lol) in comparison to using various types of plastic, enclosed bins.

Well, now the Worm Inn just got BIGGER and better! The Worm Inn Mega holds at least DOUBLE the volume of the standard model so you can expect a massive boost in processing power!

NOTE: The “Mega” no longer comes with a PVC stand “kit” – After realizing how easy it was to build the wooden stand (plans included), and how much better supported the system is using this stand, I decided to discontinue offering the PVC stand kit for Mega purchases.

Worm Inn Mega - No Worms
Worm Inn Mega - No Worms
Worm Inn Mega - NO Worms - along with plans for easy DIY wooden stand. Pricing includes U.S. shipping for the Inn. Choose your color from the drop-down menu below.
Price: $127.00
Color :

Worm Inn Mega + 3 lb of Red Worms
Worm Inn Mega + 3 lb of Red Worms
Worm Inn Mega + 3 lb of Red Worms + plans for easy DIY wooden stand. Pricing includes U.S. shipping for the Inn AND worms, which are shipped separately. Choose your color from the drop-down menu below.
Price: $194.00
Color :

Worm Inn Mega + 5 lb of Red Worms
Worm Inn Mega + 5 lb of Red Worms
Worm Inn Mega + 5 lb of Red Worms + plans for easy DIY wooden stand. Pricing includes U.S. shipping for the Inn AND worms, which are shipped separately. Choose your color from the drop-down menu below.
Price: $230.00
Color :


Read the comments left by other users below, or:

Get your own gravatar by visiting Rosy
#1. December 16th, 2008, at 3:17 AM.

While using the Worm Inn, do you need to place a tray on the floor to collect the vermin tea(juice)?

Get your own gravatar by visiting Bentley
#2. December 18th, 2008, at 3:51 PM.

Hi Rosy – sorry for the delay.
You can certainly put a tray underneath just to be safe, but based on my experience, with normal feeding and watering there will be no risk of needing this. I work harder to keep the contents moist than I do coping with excess moisture – that’s for sure.

Get your own gravatar by visiting Rosy
#3. December 18th, 2008, at 11:27 PM.

Thank you!

Get your own gravatar by visiting Gregor
#4. January 28th, 2009, at 6:02 AM.

Does this need to be washed occassionally, and if so, what do you do with the worms during that time?

How often should you harvest the worms, if they are busy propagating?

Get your own gravatar by visiting Bentley
#5. January 28th, 2009, at 4:09 PM.

Hi Gregor,
You don’t really need to wash the system – I guess you could if you wanted to though. Simply put the contents in a big Rubbermaid tub while you clean it – just make sure not to use any harsh chemicals for cleaning.

Harvesting the worms is optional (population will self-regulate based on available food and space), but periodically you could of course remove part of the bedding (with worms) to add to other systems etc. I would wait at least a couple months before doing this, and wouldn’t do it all that often since you will want to optimize castings production. I’m sure you could get away with removing 1/4 to 1/3 of the worms every few months (again, after waiting for a few months initially). This is a very rough estimate though since every system is different (depending on how you care for it).

Get your own gravatar by visiting Rob
#6. April 21st, 2009, at 9:55 PM.

This looks really interesting – is there any odor?

Get your own gravatar by visiting Adam
#7. April 30th, 2009, at 3:57 AM.

Could I get it with Nightcrawlers? How much would that cost? Thanks.

Get your own gravatar by visiting Jim Waters
#8. May 4th, 2009, at 3:05 AM.

With only a 15″ top area, you haven’t got much surface area for the worms to work.
Surface area is the important bit, so it’s not going to hold too many worms, or convert a lot of scraps.

How does the cover fit? Is it zipped up or a separate piece? I can’t quite tell from the picture.

Get your own gravatar by visiting Sandra Mort
#9. May 6th, 2009, at 6:27 PM.

WOW, cool, can I use BSF in it? I was thinking that this looks like something I could sew (since I’m broke and can’t afford your very cool setup or a biopod).

Get your own gravatar by visiting Bentley
#10. May 7th, 2009, at 12:11 AM.

ROB – like any vermicomposting system, when set up and managed properly there should be very little in the way of odors.

ADAM – I tried European Nightcrawlers in it and it really didn’t seem to be the ideal system for them. They all went to the very bottom (likely trying to find higher moisture content. As such, I’m a little leery to encourage others to go this route. For now I’ll stick to selling Reds with it.

JIM – Surface area is very important in a vermicomposting system – there’s no doubt about it. But unlike something like a bucket, there is good oxygenation throughout the system so it can hold more worms than you might think. The increased aeration will also greatly aid the decomposition process as well – if you further aid the process by aging/blending etc the waste materials, I suspect it could process a considerable quantity of food scraps on a weekly basis. Hmmm…this sounds like a good idea for a new RWC challenge! As for the cover – on the standard model it simply attaches in 4 spots via velcro strips. In the new ‘Pro’ version it completely zips down all the way around.

SANDRA – I suppose you could keep BSFL in it – although I don’t think it would necessarily be the ideal system for them (I’m no BSF expert though)

Get your own gravatar by visiting Steve
#11. March 7th, 2010, at 6:42 PM.

How is the compost removed from the “inn” and how are the worms separated from the compost?

Get your own gravatar by visiting Bentley
#12. March 11th, 2010, at 3:22 PM.

Hi Steve,
In the Worm Inn, those are one and the same. The idea is that the worms will concentrate themselves primarily up at the top where the best food resources are. The material at the bottom (once you’ve let the system run for a number of months) should be good compost (but not good worm food anymore). There are drawstrings at the bottom that can be loosened to let the compost out. The first time around you will likely need to use a hand fork (or something similar) to scrape some of the material out.

Get your own gravatar by visiting Angel
#13. June 15th, 2010, at 2:58 AM.

Hi Bentley, we’re now fighting off earwigs that are attracted to our worm bin, so we’re going to try out the Worm Inn and hopefully keep annoying insects out of our house as much as possible! A quick question before I order, is this $75 version available now the Worm Inn Pro with the zipper top? Or is it the velcro top?

Get your own gravatar by visiting Bentley
#14. June 15th, 2010, at 3:32 AM.

Hi Angel,
Are you sure those “earwigs” aren’t Rove Beetles?

Anyway, to answer your question, the only Worm Inn available now is what used to be referred to as the “PRO” – but it’s even been improved upon since the first PRO series was released. Now it is just a single zipper rather than two zippers coming together (which resulted in a small opening where insects could get in and out). And of course, we now have the promotion whereby you receive the components for making a PVC stand (just need to buy a few pieces of PVC) for free when you make a purchase.

Get your own gravatar by visiting Angel
#15. June 16th, 2010, at 3:54 AM.

Thanks for the quick response! After some Google research, I’m fairly sure we have earwigs. The ones we find never fly and aren’t very fast. (Everything I’m seeing about rove beetles says they’re fast on foot and when flying.) My husband also found a few in our sink amidst some dirty dishes the other day. Seems like rove beetles are mainly carnivorous, but earwigs like damp places and will eat decaying food. Either way, I don’t want any more insects attracted to our worm bin and multiplying. One thing I haven’t found any info on – do you know if either rove beetles or earwigs will lay eggs in the worm bin?

Get your own gravatar by visiting Bentley
#16. June 16th, 2010, at 6:19 PM.

Hi Angel,
I think your assessment is definitely on target. One thing I didn’t ask about was the size. Earwigs are definitely quite a bit bigger than most rove beetles as well.
As for reproducing in a worm bin – I would say that yes both would likely do so, although my guess is that the earwigs are much more likely to do so in outdoor systems.

Get your own gravatar by visiting Debbie
#17. September 18th, 2010, at 8:18 AM.

Hey Bentley,
(Haven’t commented in awhile! Left Australia and back in the States, now anticipating snow in NY.)
So I am missing my worms, and planning to start fresh. Somewhat horrified with prices, Australian local gov’ts were always subsidizing them to around $50… looked at your DIY… concluding I am just too lazy to actually make one from scratch, plus I don’t have a lot of tools in my rented apartment.
Therefore, seriously considering the Worm Inn, especially after re-reading the reviews. I’d like to keep this under my kitchen sink, out of sight and mind of my roommates :) — so my main question of the day is… how short and small can it be? I see that you said 27 x 15 x 15″… so first I suppose I don’t need to make the legs 36″, right? Can I make it 27? 26? Can it touch the ground and maybe 20-25 or is that pushing it too far? The side pieces, instead of 18″ can I make them 15 or 14?
Will it fit under the kitchen sink? That isn’t one of the ~suggested~ locations on the main page. It looks pretty large in the pics with Robyn. I wonder if WormDude would be interested in producing a compact, under the sink version?


Get your own gravatar by visiting Paula from Illinois
#18. January 7th, 2011, at 6:42 PM.

I just bought a Worm Inn. I was concerned about putting the stand together. Im machanically challanged:-) I rememberd that I have a walker in my basement. So Im going to give that a try before I try making the stand. All 4 legs are adjustable so I can raise or lower it to what ever hight I need. I will let you all know how it works. I also remember seeing walkers at Salvation Army and Good Will stores for under $10.00

Get your own gravatar by visiting Paul from Winnipeg
#19. February 20th, 2011, at 6:09 AM.

Hey Bentley, I notice that prices include shipping to the continental U.S.A. Any chance a Canuck can get one of these shipped to them?

Get your own gravatar by visiting Paul Dass
#20. February 24th, 2011, at 5:57 AM.

Hi this is great idea, I have never seen one like this and how smart. Since I am heading an NGO based in India, helping and teaching the simple thing to the poor community, this is some thing very interesting. Even at home gardens this is just great. I would recommend in my community every one must have one in their home garden, even if they don’t have garden still they can make compost and share it with others who has garden that way we would have reduced that much garbage and turned it out to be gold, that’s what I feel.

Once again a BIG THAK YOU.
Paul Dass

Get your own gravatar by visiting Cody Witt
#21. March 13th, 2011, at 7:23 PM.

So I have been reading through the worm inn update pages and through your site about this system. I would like you to explain why this system our performs other layered systems such as the Can-O-Worms. Even though worms always will concentrate at the top of the Worm Inn, wouldn’t a layered system that you can separate to pull out the worm castings and also drain the worm tea for use be much easier to take care of and create healthy vermicomposting systems? You probably have used or seen a system like this but here is a link if you haven’t.…so in general…why Worm Inn and not that type of system?

Get your own gravatar by visiting Bentley
#22. March 13th, 2011, at 9:42 PM.

Hi Cody,
Let me start by saying that I’ve never said anything about the Worm Inn “outperforming” certain systems or anything like that, but I will certainly be more than happy to explain why I personally LOVE it (and ultimately why I decided to sell it – and not those stacking systems). One big plus for me is the simplicity (very much in line with my own K.I.S.S. approach). It is a single-compartment flow-through system so you don’t have to worry about trying to get the worms to move from one tray to the next (if all the emails I’ve received from stacking bin owners are any indication – it seems that worms often don’t want to move upwards in these systems).
Another big plus is the aeration that this system provides. It is very helpful for optimizing the vermicomposting process (resulting in stabilized, humus-rich materials being produced more quickly) and keeping the worms healthy. One of the newer stacking systems (Worm Factory 360) seems to be the first of these bins to actually offer some additional aeration. I certainly wouldn’t ever claim that the other plastic stacking systems are likely to end up as swampy as a typical plastic tub system, but some of them can still get pretty wet.
One of the other problems that seems to come up over and over again in emails from stacking bin owners is worm migration down into the reservoir – something else you don’t need to worry about with the Worm Inn.

As for Worm Tea – while I do agree (up to a point) with your comment on another post about “any tea” being better than “no tea”, I still don’t subscribe to the idea that worm bins should be used to create worm compost tea. Create the top notch vermicompost first, THEN make the tea. Stacking systems can make good vermicompost – don’t get me wrong – I just don’t like the way the manufacturers of these systems make them out to be top notch worm tea machines as well.

Vermicompost separation is very easy with the Worm Inn – all I do is loosen the drawstrings and scrape it out with a small garden hand fork.

At the end of the day it comes down to personal preference. Again, I have in no way attempted to slam the stacking systems (or the people that love them). I just happen to not be a huge fan, based on my own experience and the feedback I’ve received from others.

Bottom-line, I’m sure we can all be friends (haha) and continue using the systems we love to use, producing good quality vermicompost, and working together to spread the word about vermicomposting.

Anyway – just my 2 cents!
Thanks for the questions

Get your own gravatar by visiting Mark from Kansas
#23. March 14th, 2011, at 2:04 PM.

Hi Cody,
I don’t own a Worm Inn (I would like to) nor do I sell them.
I do have a flow thru bin and in my opinion is the flow thru is the best choice of bin for me. My flow thru has two surfaces for aeration, the top and the bottom in the harvest chamber, my experience is that this exchange of air makes for a healthy bin. My flow thru does require more maintenance than I would like to commit to. What I have read about the Worm Inn, is that it has six surfaces for aeration, and vastly increases air flow.
I personally like the looks of the Worm Inn because it can be kept inside, has a contemporary design (with different colors, you can match the curtains), has the potential to divert waste material out of the landfill, and makes vermicomposting cool.

Get your own gravatar by visiting CWilliams
#24. March 22nd, 2011, at 5:48 AM.

Hi Bentley,
Can I keep the worm inn outside or is that not recommended? I live in Southern California (South of LA) so we don’t get any snow or extreme weather.

Get your own gravatar by visiting Bentley
#25. March 26th, 2011, at 8:35 AM.

Hi C,
I kept one of my Worm Inns outside for a few months and it seemed to do just fine. You would likely need to water it more often and I suspect it would break down more quickly – especially if exposed to sunlight.

Get your own gravatar by visiting Paula from Illinois
#26. April 13th, 2011, at 3:37 AM.

Has anyone with a Worm Inn had any problems with it being damp at the bottom. I thought it should be more dry then it is. The only thing that comes out the bottom is liquid, Not a lot of liquid a oz maybe. How long did it take for the people that have a WI for VC to come out the bottom? Should I put a fan on it or open the draw string a little more? Any comments would be appreciated.

Get your own gravatar by visiting Angel
#27. April 14th, 2011, at 2:47 PM.

Hi Paula, Do you water your Worm Inn frequently? How long have you had your worm habitat in the Worm Inn? Did you start a brand new habitat in the Worm Inn, or did you move old compost from a rubbermaid tub or elsewhere?

Get your own gravatar by visiting Bentley
#28. April 14th, 2011, at 3:24 PM.

Hi Paula,
Like Angel, I’d like a bit more info on how you’ve been using it. Frequent food waste additions (especially with regular watering) can certainly result in some run off. How moisture is distributed within Inn also plays important role. Slow, evenly-distributed, small water additions on a regular basis seems to help keep the moisture in the system.
When thinking about making your first harvest (typically 2-3 months in) you should probably leave it alone (no food/water) for maybe a week or so. The worms will finish off more of the unprocessed stuff and excess moisture will drain/evaporate.

Hope this helps!

Get your own gravatar by visiting Paula from Illinois
#29. April 14th, 2011, at 3:58 PM.

April and Bentley I started the Worm Inn in Febuary with 200 worms. I added some bedding from my other systems before I added the worms. Since I feed them mostly mellon rinds and salad greens, rotting leaves there is moisture already present so I have not had to add any extra water.
I use lots of bedding on top. Shredded newspaper, shredded telephonebook pages, egg cartons, and cardboard from boxes and soda cartons.
As for harvesting Im in no big hurry. I dug around towards the bottom and it is great looking vc and smells like earth not a garbage can. The 200 worms I would swear are not closer to 500 or 600. Maybe more.
Thanks for the reply April and Bentley.

Get your own gravatar by visiting Paula from Illinois
#30. April 14th, 2011, at 4:01 PM.

Angel not April Im so sorry. After I hit send I saw I used April. If your reading this you might say to your self who the heck is April.
Paula :-)
thanks again.

Get your own gravatar by visiting Sophie
#31. April 18th, 2011, at 3:02 AM.

Hello, I am new to worm composting and the design on this seemingly popular model makes me really worried about liquid draining out. I live in an apartment and really don’t want to deal with seepage.

I saw someone ask about leaving the Worm Inn outside. I live in Vancouver BC and sometimes we do get the occasional cold snap below freezing. Will I kill my worms? What If I covered them?

Is the really no spell in a tiny apartment?

Get your own gravatar by visiting Jay
#32. May 4th, 2011, at 11:00 PM.

I recently setup my Worm Inn. There seems to be fruit flies on the outside top of the inn that are trying to get in. Of course they can’t do to the screening but I would like to not have the flies around the outside of the Worm Inn. Any tips?

Get your own gravatar by visiting Angel
#33. May 5th, 2011, at 2:43 PM.

@Sophie – we have our Worm Inn right in our living room since we are in a 1-bedroom apartment near Chicago (too cold or hot most of the year for the worms to go outside). We put a mop bucket under our worm inn to stop any seepage from ruining the carpet. It works perfectly. There will occasionally be a smell if we feed the worms too much at one time, but as long as we give them just the right amount, there isn’t a smell. Also, we freeze and blend our scraps in a food processor before we give it to the worms; this helps it decompose faster and makes it more quickly digestible for the worms. That also helps there to be no smell, as opposed to large chunks of food sitting around rotting, waiting for the worms to be able to eat it.

@Jay – Do you blend your scraps in a blender or food processor? This helps the worms eat it faster and makes it less attractive to flies. Also, do you cover your Worm Inn with a thick layer of cardboard bedding? This helps make the food further away from the screened top where flies can try to get in. We do both blending and covering with a thick layer of cardboard every time we feed the worms, and have not had any problems with fruit flies hanging around trying to find a way in.

Get your own gravatar by visiting Paula from Illinois
#34. May 5th, 2011, at 3:48 PM.

Angel execelent advice. This is just my opinion but the my Worm Inn seems to out compost any other system I have used. I have put some really rotten food in it and once covered with bedding there is no smell. I keep all my worm systems inside in our basement. To me having a worm system in a room should be no problem. Just think of it as a potted plant. Feed and water it when needed.

Get your own gravatar by visiting Lisa
#35. September 23rd, 2011, at 3:04 PM.

Hi Bentley:

Lisa from CT here (several time repeat worm customer :)
I just ordered the worm-inn which comes with the corner connectors and am wondering how much 3/4″ PVC I need to buy. I want to buy it now so I can assemble the unit once it arrives.

Also, at maximum capacity, how many worms can successfully thrive in this system? I have LOTS of worms outside that i’m going to bring in for the winter, but dont want to overload the unit.


Get your own gravatar by visiting Bentley
#36. September 30th, 2011, at 2:52 PM.

Hi Lisa – sorry for delay replying here (glad we managed to connect via email in the meantime). I’ll answer this one for the benefit of others.
Helpful info re: the PVC piping can be found in these posts

Basically, you will need three 10′ ft lengths, which will then be cut (I cut them myself at Home Depot) into eight 18″ lengths and four 36″ lengths.

As for the quantity of worms, my guess it that this system could handle 3-4 lb of Red Worms. Probably better to start with 1-2 lb though.

Hope this helps!


Get your own gravatar by visiting Paula
#37. October 1st, 2011, at 10:10 PM.

Lisa you are going to love your Worm Inn. It works great.

Get your own gravatar by visiting Lisa
#38. October 3rd, 2011, at 1:58 PM.

What keeps fluid from draining out the bottom – where it’s held closed by drawstrings?

Are the drawstrings tight enough that worms cant get out?

Can someone give me a link to proper setup and use of the unit; nothing came with the shipment.

Thank you.


Get your own gravatar by visiting Bentley
#39. October 3rd, 2011, at 4:09 PM.

Hi Lisa,
Because the system is so well aerated, there usually isn’t all that much dripping. Nevertheless, I DO still recommend putting a small bucket or tub directly below just in case.
I have yet to see ANY worms trying to escape from a Worm Inn – again, likely due to the excellent air flow (keeping their habitat zone nice and oxygenated).

Set up of the system is very straight-forward, and it is actually mentioned in the email sent to customers shortly after purchase:

“If you are looking for info specifically relating to setting up a Worm Inn, these posts may be of
interest (the second one talks about the PVC stand as well):

Hope this helps!

Get your own gravatar by visiting Tim
#40. October 30th, 2011, at 4:14 PM.

I would like to keep the “Inn” in our Michigan garage during this winter. It gets near freezing on the coldest days. What is the coldest the worms can tolerate?

Get your own gravatar by visiting Bentley
#41. October 31st, 2011, at 1:59 AM.

Hi Tim,
The worms can likely tolerate pretty close to freezing (I have found them wiggling in semi-frozen compost before), but the speed of the composting process will decrease substantially (think “grinding halt” – haha) – so you won’t likely be able to keep adding more waste materials.

Get your own gravatar by visiting thuan
#42. December 14th, 2011, at 11:17 AM.

Hi Bentley,
It is getting cold. Is it true, adding rice, bread in moderation can raise the internal temperature of the worm inn? I recently put in lots of persimons and rice noodles into the inn. Outside temperature drops to 35F at night and 60F during daytime. Of course it takes longer for them to process the waste but it seems to be working, almost two weeks for pound and half of wastes. Any other ways to bump up the temperature or just leave as is until spring and add food judiciously.

Get your own gravatar by visiting Bentley
#43. December 15th, 2011, at 12:08 PM.

Hi Thuan,
It’s fairly challenging to keep a Worm Inn warm outside in cold weather unfortunately. Adding more food will likely help up to a point, but the risk there is that when it DOES warm up, a lot of that waste material will rapidly decompose all at once, potentially creating trouble for your worms (although the Worm Inn does tend to be pretty forgiving in this regard). If bringing the system indoors isn’t an option, you may simply have to make do with slower processing speeds.

Get your own gravatar by visiting Sandra Lasater
#44. January 16th, 2012, at 1:23 AM.

I am considering purchasing the Worm Inn. Does it come with complete set-up instructions for the actual “Inn” ie. the bedding ,watering, worms and etc. for a worm Dummy just starting out? Thanks

Get your own gravatar by visiting thuan
#45. January 17th, 2012, at 1:32 PM.

Comment #41 above has links to setting up the worm inn. I just recently started using two inns. It is fairly easy to set up and maintain, much easier than using a plastic bin. And Bentley has the best price and best quality worms!

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#46. January 17th, 2012, at 1:37 PM.

Thanks very much, Thuan!

Sandra – just to add a bit to what Thuan shared, you should also receive an email with pertinent links, plus a link for downloading the “official” Worm Inn brochure, which also contains information about the system.
Hope this helps!


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#47. February 4th, 2012, at 4:28 PM.

I can assure that you CAN keep vermicomposting indoor all around the year by using the worm inn. I have so much success using the worm inn- far better than using a tub which I had a lot of problems in past. It really sails absolutely smooth and has been a fun experience since last May.
Tips: Know the room air environment first. And secondly,then make some changes or/and adjustments around the outer of worm inn first before doing the inner of inn.
It would be better if you plan to do it indoor year-round, choose the room where you plan to keep the inn there permanently.

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#48. February 16th, 2012, at 11:09 AM.

Thinking of purchasing but want to make sure it is still available :) work at a restaurant so I have access to a lot of veggie scraps!!! Would love to get started before it is time to start spring planting!! Can not wait to hear from you!!

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#49. February 16th, 2012, at 1:24 PM.

Michelle – did I give the impression that Worm Inns were no longer available?
Definitely not the case (i.e. they ARE available and still include the PVC corner pieces for making a PVC stand)

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#50. February 16th, 2012, at 5:27 PM.

Bentley I am just being a smart shopper:) and thanks sinning for the quick response!!! Can not wait to try my hand at this and I hope my plants get to enjoy my new adventure!

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#51. July 18th, 2012, at 5:20 PM.

Worm Inn can successfully work inthe area whichhas always 37 to 45 cellcius temp ?

With worm itis avilable in India?
If yes,please give an adress and price too.

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#52. August 3rd, 2012, at 6:46 PM.

I received my worm inn. What do I do next to get it started. Although I read the FAQ and getting started, I still have no clue what/how much I should put in to get it ready for the worms.

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#53. August 3rd, 2012, at 7:31 PM.

Hi Jeanne,
Here is a blurb from the confirmation email that gets sent out to Worm Inn customers:

“If you are looking for info specifically relating to setting up a Worm Inn, these posts may be of interest (the second one talks about the PVC stand as well):

Here is another (more recent) one that might help as well:

The basic idea is as follows:

False bottom of dry bedding material (shredded cardboard works well)
Moistened mix of bedding and food waste (perhaps half the volume of the bag)
Thick cover of dry bedding

Let it age for a little while (if possible) before adding the worms.

Hope this helps!

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#54. August 29th, 2012, at 10:07 AM.

Q: Would a pound of worms be enough to get started with? We have local people who sell them.

thank you! I LOVE this site. You have the very best info.

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#55. August 29th, 2012, at 10:16 AM.

Hi Joy,
Thanks for the kind words. A pound should certainly be enough to get your Worm Inn system going!

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#56. February 14th, 2013, at 12:07 AM.


Will fungus gnats congregate in or around the Worm Inn? I’ve been contemplating getting one to store my wet vermicompost after I harvest it so I can let it dry out some before putting it into a storage bin. I just worry that a wet Worm Inn bag might be a fungus gnat magnet and that even if they can’t get inside of it they might congregate on the outside since they love moisure so much. Since my bins are in the garage gnats area always finding there way in there. Nematodes help control pre-emergence but not pesky adult invaders. Sometimes I find live gnats floating in the leechate of my worm drainage catch basins.

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#57. March 1st, 2013, at 1:17 PM.

Hey Bentley,
How come you don’t carry the red Worm Inns? I notice they are available elsewhere -no biggie, just curious.
Thanks for the birthday sale, and happy birthday early!

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#58. March 1st, 2013, at 1:39 PM.

CABO – sorry for the delay! Using a Worm Inn for vermicompost drying is an interesting idea. If the drawstrings were tight (and tied around the bottom of the Inn as well) and the lid was zipped up you could probably keep the material free of gnats. Not sure I would recommend purchasing an Inn just for that purpose though! lol
DEB – what others call “Red” is almost certainly “Port”, or perhaps they just happen to have older versions of the Inn (there may have been a “Red” once upon a time). I’m good friends with the owner of the Worm Inn brand so I’m definitely not missing out on any of the available colors.

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#59. March 5th, 2013, at 12:34 AM.

Quick question. It looks like you put shredded cardboard at the absolute bottom when you first set up the Worm Inn. Will the worms travel around this to deposit the castings or will all that cardboard come out with your first harvest? Thank you.

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#60. May 25th, 2013, at 10:50 PM.

How many Worm Inns and worms do you recommend for a household that produces two (2) pounds of vegetable waste daily? The Worm Inns would be kept inside year round.

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#61. May 28th, 2013, at 10:38 AM.

TOM – strange! I somehow missed your comment! Sorry about that.
Answer – the false bottom typically stays intact as-is and drops out on your first harvest.
STEVEN – Hmmm…interesting question. It’s hard to say for sure, but at least 2 or 3. Worm Inns handle loads of waste without the same issues that plastic bin systems can encounter – BUT there’s no use stockpiling food wastes in them if the worms can’t keep up. 2 lb every day is quite a bit. It should be optimized for the worms, and you should be using at least 4 lb of them to process it. If you have any other sort of “overflow” bin (like a backyard composter), or if you can freeze excess – so as to give the systems a rest periodically – two Inns should serve you well.

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#62. August 26th, 2013, at 7:09 PM.

Are there any plans for a larger Worm Inn, like a Worm Silo? Imagine a 55 gallon drum made of Cordura fabric and reinforced rings along the sides. I have access to restaurant scraps which equate to a few hundred pounds of waste consisting mostly of onions, bell peppers, broccoli, cabbage, etc., a week. We go through 200# of just broccoli a day. Imagine the amount of stem discards that could be used for compost.

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#63. August 29th, 2013, at 8:17 AM.

@Stan (#64) ” onions, bell peppers, broccoli, cabbage”

Sounds like a great idea, but not with the scraps you have available.

Onions should be kept to a minimum. The high sulfur content kills off the ‘good guys’ that live in the vermicompost pile. A small onion scrap here or there wont hurt, but it should be kept to a minimum.

Broccoli and cabbage and both Cruciferous Vegetables which omit a high gas content. Any veggies in the cruciferous category should be used carefully and when used, be mixed in combination with mild scraps such as lettuce, potato peels, fruit scraps, etc. Something to offset the gas load.

A bin consisting of mostly sulfur containing onions and gas omitting cruciferous veggies is likely to have bad results. However, if you could score the same amounts of more worm friendly scraps, then you’ve got an excellent opportunity! ???

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#64. August 29th, 2013, at 8:23 AM.


The ??? marks at the end of my message WERE smiley faces when I posted it. Not sure why it converted them to question marks.


Lisa L.

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#65. September 24th, 2013, at 11:34 AM.

What made ??this bag. Whether the moisture is removed. Leachate or where it goes

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#66. October 3rd, 2013, at 11:23 AM.

Stan – a late response for you, but YES the larger Worm Inn model is still being considered for release at some point. Just waiting to hear back from Jerry (owner of Worm Inn brand) on this.

Majid – It is made of cordura (was definitely the original Worm Inn material – pretty sure Jerry continued to use this once he took over). A lot of moisture is removed via evaporation – but if excess builds up it can also drain out the bottom.

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#67. October 11th, 2013, at 5:56 AM.

Is the black material at the bottom breathable just like the cordula? What material is it? I’d be concerned that it keeps the moisture (even though it’s open, the opening is narrow). Luke

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#68. July 30th, 2014, at 11:00 PM.

It looks like the frame made out of PVC pipe, which is not at all environmentally friendly. I hope they find a better design.

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#69. August 2nd, 2014, at 11:02 AM.

Luke (sorry I missed this one) – the lower material would be breathable as well – likely even more so!
Rebecca – you are absolutely correct. PVC is not really eco-friendly – but then again, the Worm Inn itself couldn’t be considered completely eco-friendly either. It is made from a synthetic material. The way I see it, it’s all about finding a balance. If I am using something that’s not made from natural materials and it’s helping me be eco-friendly in other ways, over and over again, I don’t feel quite so guilty. Also important to mention that one can easily create a wooden stand for the Worm Inn (and I actually highly recommend this in the case of the Mega).

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#70. October 18th, 2014, at 7:22 PM.

What temperature problems or constraints will occur if I try to raise worms in the Tampa Florida area? Is there anyone that I can communicate with in the Wesley Chapel (36544) area to ask for some guidance with respect to raising worms after I purchase the Mega? Thank you from a member who purchased the life time just to follow this wonderful area.

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#71. October 30th, 2014, at 9:43 PM.

Hey David,
Not sure if you are a Facebook user – but if so I would highly recommend the RWC Worm Inns or main RWC Facebook group as great spots for guidance. You can of course email me any time as well.
I don’t really recommend using Worm Inns outdoors – especially not in locations with really high/low temps. That said, I know of at least one person who has had success with them in a hot (California) outdoor location.

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#72. November 15th, 2014, at 3:51 PM.

Would the Mega version be applicable for a small vegetarian bed and breakfast? We have some vegetable scraps daily but most of all a lot of compostable plates and hot cups which would make excellent bedding I would think.
What are the dimensions of the Mega?

Thank you

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#73. December 11th, 2014, at 9:44 AM.

Hi Julien
Apologies for the delay approving your comment (pretty sure I emailed you directly already to discuss this – HOPE so anyway! lol). For the benefit of everyone else – yes, I think the Mega would be a great system for a small bed and breakfast. If the compostable plates are some form of biodegradable plastic or styrofoam that might not work so well – pretty sure these materials need hot composting for best results. Anything paper based would work very well.

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#74. February 24th, 2015, at 6:18 PM.

Can this be set up outside and rained on, or does it need to be covered?

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#75. February 24th, 2015, at 10:29 PM.

@David – In terms of climate I thought I’d share my experience in in central TX where it is plenty hot and a similar latitude.

I’ve got a tray system (worm factory) that I kept outdoors last summer (on the balcony of my apartment under constant shade and plenty of breeze. While the worms didn’t die in the 100 degree days, other creatures that could thrive much better in the heat also moved in and were out-competing the worms for food and space as well as warming things up with their activity (especially black soldier fly larvae but others as well). Finally I moved it into the garage where the temps were a little more constant and there were somewhat fewer invaders and also filtered out the BSFL population. After that move the worms became much happier and really started to thrive.

I suspect that with the worm inn invaders would be less of a problem since the container is much more enclosed than tray systems are, but that competition factor is one thing to consider with the heat. I’ve read that the ideal temps for the red worms are in the 40-80F range, and they can survive far outside that, as I have seen with my worms but may not be as productive. If you can at all locate your setup in as sheltered an area as possible where the temperature stays more constant I suspect that will go a long way to help.

The main thing I would say that I’ve learned in this last year is don’t worry or panic or make lots of extreme changes if your results aren’t immediate. In addition to their other needs, the worms like it dark, quiet and still (like it is in the ground) so the inevitable poking around in their habitat during my initial excitement and learning period probably didn’t help things.

It can also take some time to figure out just what adjustments you need to make to get their environment just right in your area. As you adjust a little bit here and a little bit there it will improve over time. Between Bentley’s site here and the helpful, friendly community that has grown up around it there is a lot of info that is worth reading and even re-reading several times as you tune your worm habitat.

Another note on the BSFL, they are used for composting too and were absolutely voracious eaters. When they were in force pretty much anything I put in the bin was gone within a day or two. I think they may be seasonal though so that is where worms have an advantage – worms can’t fly away! :) Down the road one day when I’m out of the apartment and have some more space I’d like to try a dual setup with the BSFL for seasonal high volume processing (I’m thinking summer grass clippings) and the worms for more steady year-round reliability.

Happy Crawling!!

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#76. February 25th, 2015, at 11:38 AM.

Hi Kel
I have a customer (has owned multiple Worm Inns) who swears by it as an outdoor system (in a hot location no less!). I personally recommend it as the “ultimate indoor” system since there are typically far fewer hassles than with something like a plastic enclosed bin. If left exposed to solar radiation, severe weather etc…it can definitely break down more quickly.
As for heavy rain – my recommendation would definitely be some sort of cover. Lots of worms may crawl out the bottom during warm night time rain showers otherwise.

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#77. March 10th, 2015, at 1:13 AM.

Hi there,

What keeps the worms inside the Inn when harvesting compost?

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#78. March 10th, 2015, at 11:59 PM.

Hi Helene
The key is to wait until the level of material in Inn is consistently up near the top. This should be a very active worm feeding zone. When harvesting you are only scraping the stuff down near the bottom which should be pretty nice vermicompost, containing few if any worms by that point.

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#79. April 4th, 2015, at 7:26 PM.

How does this system work in a desert climate?
I live at the edge of the Mojave desert, where summer temperatures routinely approach 115° and even on a shaded, covered patio reach 100°. NIght time temperatures in the summer rarely drop below 85°. At the other end of the spectrum, winter temps often drop to the upper twenties at night with day time temperatures warming up to low forties. I have had multiple “heat stroke” failures using other worm bin methods.

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#80. April 7th, 2015, at 12:00 PM.

Hi Mojave,
I definitely wouldn’t recommend using a Worm Inn outdoors in an environment like that. Indoors, my recommendation would be to use a humidifier or even some open buckets of water in the same room as the system to help keep humidity levels up, thereby helping to slow down the drying out process (spraying down regularly with water will also likely be important).

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#81. April 10th, 2015, at 5:50 PM.

Can the Mega Worm Bin work in the Phoenix summer heat? Please detail.

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#82. June 8th, 2015, at 3:35 AM.


Silly question: is cordura fabric actually safe for this usage or does it contain chemicals that will migrate into the worms and vermicompost over time?

Since it’s normally used for luggage, etc., not food-related applications, in my understanding.


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#83. June 26th, 2015, at 11:24 AM.

Hi Aaron – sorry for the delay.
There is no such thing as a “silly question” – and your question is actually very good. Unfortunately I don’t really have an answer for you. My hunch is that if your Worm Inn sits in direct sunlight there is probably a greater chance of this happening. But just generally speaking, I highly doubt that this is something to be concerned about. It’s hard to avoid things that don’t release at least SOME toxins these days. I’m sure virtually all plastic bin systems would as well.

Would there be enough released to kill the worms or “poison” the compost – absolutely not.

Hope this helps.

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#84. June 26th, 2015, at 11:48 AM.

Wayne – sorry for missing your comment as well!
I hate to say it, but my guess is that it would be very difficult to use a Mega outdoors in Phoenix summer heat – UNLESS you have a way of keeping temperatures down in the system.

If the worm habitat goes higher than 90 the worms are going to die – that’s all there is to it.

The advantage of a place like Phoenix is that it would at least be a “dry heat”, so it might be possible to keep the temps down with evaporative cooling. The Mega itself is quite breathable, so if you kept it well watered (would be critical in your region) it might stay cool enough. You might also try some sort of water wicking system – eg drape an old sheet over the Mega and keep one end in a bucket of water. I would think this would help to reduce water loss from the system AND keep it cooler.

You would definitely need to keep it somewhere very shady as well.

Hope this helps!

P.S. The Mega is pretty well the “ultimate” indoor system – so I would definitely think seriously about keeping it indoors. You won’t have to deal with most of the hassles you can encounter with other home worm bins.

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#85. August 22nd, 2015, at 8:45 PM.

I am wondering if I keep the bin in my basement during Michigan winters, just how I store the compost until spring. Can I put it in Rubbermaid bins and if so, would those need aeration holes. Thank you!

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#86. September 17th, 2015, at 5:13 PM.

Hi Dawn,
I keep my Worm Inn in the house year round. I put my finished compost in a ruubermaid bin with one, one inch hole in the lid and kept it inside util I was ready to use it.
I don’t know what kind of effect freezing will have on the finished compost, I have always had room for a rubbermaid tote in the house.
Hope that helps. By the way, as far as the worm Inn goes, it has been the best system for me. I wouldn’t be surprised if some one (Larry) tried to make one from an old parachute.

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#87. November 22nd, 2015, at 7:59 PM.

We are worm newbies. It was a total pleasure to move our soggy glop from the tray of a borrowed stacking system to our new Worm Inn (WI) yesterday. We were able to turn off the overhead light and no one climbed up or out to die on the floor during the night. Already the area smells better.

Here are a few discoveries:

1) We’ve replaced our carbon source of shredded paper/newsprint/cardboard with semi-composted leaf matter, a “resource” which should have been removed from our roof garage a couple of years ago. (Long ago in Wisconsin I found similar in roof gutters, sometimes with worms included!) We stuffed a bin full, froze and thawed it to reduce guests, and are keeping it next to the WI to cover frozen/thawed kitchen scraps throughout the winter.

2) We dug some gravelly sand from our stream bottom to sprinkle around the WI for worm gullets. (We also crumble in dried egg shells.) Don’t know if this will help, but it somehow feels like good stewardship.

3) We built the stand from re-purposed 2×4′s. Sometimes 2x’s are less expensive to buy than 1x’s because they can be made from lower quality wood, but we had many on hand anyway. We started with (2) 24″ pieces and drilled 3/4″ holes 5″ in from each of the four ends, 1″ from the top edge. We connected the WI and working together pulled the boards firmly apart before measuring the distance between (at each end, just in case there was variation, which there wasn’t). This came out to 18″, so we cut (4) 18″ side boards, then wedged and screwed them in place one board-thickness in from the ends of the 24″ cross pieces. We cut (4) 32″ legs (bin sits on a shelf) and scrounged up another 24″ piece for the back of the bottom “U” brace. The legs are mounted with one edge against the end of each 24″ piece, and outside of the 18″ side boards with one side screwed to them. There is room for a 17″-wide drip/harvest bin at the bottom. Since the bag was mounted early in the building process, there was no need to wrestle straps. If the bag stretches we’ll replace the clips with tapered wooden plugs.

Thank you – I just love this thing!

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#88. December 6th, 2015, at 10:55 AM.

I would like to begin using a worm composting system. I want to use spent coir mats from wheatgrass and microgreen production as medium. I also do a LOT of juicing and have juice pulp also. I live in a small home with no indoor space available. It is from 38 degrees to 85 degrees in the garage. It gets below 0 here in winter.

With that being said what do you suggest? I have used worms to compost mats in a garage before and it seemed to work better than peat moss or paper. I had a closed 2 feet by 4 feet bin. I put plastic green house mesh flats in bottom to aerate then put wheat grass mats on top with the grass facing each other. I left the worms in there for about 2 months and when I checked them in spring it was AMAZING. It was perfect….now I can’t do that again because I am in small house and garage now. What can I do to duplicate my prior success….and could I save the mats outside during winter and then add worms to it outside in summer.
Should I save the mats in the container that I intend to put worms in Later?

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#89. December 6th, 2015, at 11:19 AM.

what is the lowest temperature that the worms survive in this system?

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#90. January 7th, 2016, at 9:43 AM.

Moni – if we are talking about Red Worms, regardless of the system they are in, they can handle habitat temps down to the freezing mark. As long as they don’t freeze solid they should survive (I’ve found them alive in frozen compost before). Given the size of the Mega, you should be able to keep it fairly warm (due to microbial activity) even if temps are getting down towards the freezing mark – but it definitely has its limitations. These are not insulated systems.

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#91. January 7th, 2016, at 9:47 AM.

Sorry Moni – I found your main comment after I had replied to your other one.
38-85 F is a great temperature range! Things will definitely slow down on the colder end, but like I said, with a Mega you should be able to keep the worm habitat reasonably warm simply due to the volume of material it can hold. The spent coir mats should make for a nice bedding material – as long as there are no inorganic fertilizers in them.

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#92. August 17th, 2017, at 9:18 AM.

Would it be possible to use an IBC tote cage to install about 4 of these into? Or would it be possible to get one Super Mega for one?

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#93. August 17th, 2017, at 9:25 AM.

Hi Ted – that is an interesting idea (multiple Inns installed in a IBC cage)! Not really sure about the measurements though, and it woud need some sort of cross bar in the middle.

One of those tote cages with an open tote inside could almost serve as a super Mega or sorts. Just don’t ask me to help you harvest the thing! Hahaha ;-)

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#94. September 12th, 2017, at 11:45 AM.

My Worm Inn Mega has developed a white coating on both the inside and outside. The worms seemed unaffected until the last month, when it became obvious there were fewer worms. Bedding is not an issue, there is lots of it. I don’t want to lose the worms I have. How ought I start over?


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#95. September 12th, 2017, at 12:03 PM.


I have been reading the RWC Vermicomposting Guide. I may be guilty of adding too much food and adding it as a recently ground slurry. I say “may” insofar as I am not sure if those are the reasons the bin is failing.

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#96. January 12th, 2018, at 4:33 PM.

Hey Bill – super late with this response (but better late than never?) but I wanted to let you know that I get some white fungal growth showing up on the outside of my Mega as well. In my case this is largely a case of adding lots of food waste at once and not really having a lot of air flow around the system. It sits down in my basement (in the corner of a bathroom – lol) and actually has a plastic table cloth wrapped around the stand! I don’t have additional details about your own system, but I definitely would not say it is failing solely based on the white fungal growth.

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