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Making Vermicompost Tea

A topic that a lot of people getting into (or already involved in) vermicomposting seem to be interested in is that of ‘worm tea’ – also known as vermicompost tea, worm castings tea, or just plain compost tea. Many assume that worm tea is simply made by collecting the liquid that drains out the bottom of a worm bin (if it has drainage, that is), but this isn’t really the case.

In actuality that liquid is referred to as leachate, and definitely isn’t nearly as good as real worm compost tea. The problem with leachate is that it can contain all sorts of compounds produced in partially composted or anaerobic waste materials – some of these can actually be phytotoxic – that is to say they can harm or kill plants. If you dilute the leachate with aged water and aerate it for 24 hours or so, it should be fine. Also, when it really comes down to it, if you are simply pouring the stuff out in your garden (i.e. large area, lots of microbes) it’s probably not that big a deal. I’d be more concerned about using it directly on potted plants.

High quality vermicompost tea is made from…drumroll please…high quality vermicompost! Whether you make it yourself or purchase it, the material should look and smell like really rich black earth – the higher the percentage of actual worm castings (worm poop) in it, the more it should resemble coffee grounds. If you happen to be using a rubber tub type of worm bin, the material you harvest may be pretty wet, and not exactly what I would called ‘high quality’ stuff – at least not yet. I’d recommend simply airing it out once you have separated the worm from it. You can do this by spreading it out on a plastic sheet in a dry location – if outside, you might want to keep it in the shade just so you don’t completely bake all the life out of it.

The actual making of worm tea is very simple. I’m no tea guru myself, but I do know the basic principles, and in my humble opinion that’s all you need to make some great compost tea.

Here is a basic supply list:



I simply poured two watering cans full of water over top of my muslin bag of vermicompost (which is tied at the top)


The amount of vermicompost used is up to you. For the batch I made today I used approx. 500 ml (I filled up a empty cottage cheese container). Academic research has indicated that worm compost is pretty potent stuff, with a little going a long way. So you really don’t need a massive amount to make a batch of tea – especially if you are adding some extra microbe food. Speaking of which, many of the serious worm tea brewers out there swear by a wide variety of additional amendments in their teas – materials like rock dust, kelp etc etc can apparently help to boost populations of the ‘good’ microbes, while adding some additional nutrients to the mix.



I added about a tablespoon of molasses for kicks and giggles – again, I am no expert here, but I do know this will help to boost microbial activity in the mix at least somewhat.




Lastly but certainly not leastly (thats a word – honest!), I plugged in my air pump to start aerating the tea. I will likely leave it going for 24 hours or so.


That’s pretty much it! Something I’ll likely do while the tea is brewing is move the tea bag around a bit just to make sure I’m getting a lot of the good stuff out. Normally (in an actual compost tea brewer) the bag would be suspended in the water column somehow to maximize flow of water through it, but I have little doubt that my mix will do just fine with the aeration and some addition shaking of the bag.

I’m not 100% sure what I’m going to use the tea for. I’m thinking about trying it on my big Hollyhock plant which has been suffering from various ailments and attacks from pests over the last few years. I gave it quite a bit a vermicompost this year, which definitely seems to be helping, but I think a foliar application of the worm tea might help it even more.

Anyway, I will keep everyone posted, and will certainly be talking a lot more about worm tea and vermicompost in coming weeks/months.

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Written by Bentley on July 2nd, 2008 with 10 comments.
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Get your own gravatar by visiting gravatar.com Patricia
#1. July 15th, 2008, at 8:18 AM.

I really like the idea of compost tea. I have alot of leachate (4 gallons) on a daily basis so I really haven’t made too much effort to aerate castings. If I wanted to give tea as a gift to friends, and I put it into a container would they need to dilute or use full strenght? I would think either way would be ok. Love this site and all the great info! thanks bunches.

Get your own gravatar by visiting gravatar.com Bentley
#2. July 16th, 2008, at 2:21 PM.

Hi Patricia,
Wow – 4 gallons of leachate? Sounds like you have quite the operation going there (based on other info you have shared as well).
Worm tea as a gift is a nice idea, but I would suggest making it with castings, and would also suggest giving it to the person shortly after making it. You definitely don’t want to leave it sitting around for any length of time once you are finished aerating it.

You don’t necessarily need to dilute it though. Worm castings aren’t strong like bat guano etc, so there is no worry about burning your plants or anything like that.

Get your own gravatar by visiting gravatar.com Patricia
#3. July 16th, 2008, at 9:55 PM.

That is exactly what I thought. 4 gallons is alot for me as I do have worms in american recycling bins and the worms are awesome!! I would definitely use castings for my tea which is my project for today. I also remember reading on one of your sites about using it right away so that makes sense. I think I will just give them castings in a burlap or something bag and let them make their own. Recently at a fair, I bought some coconut coir from a guy for $10 a block(not a brick) and am planning on mixing some coir with manure and start a new pile soon. Have been reading up on it lately. I am confused about why you need to add gypsum though? Or did I misread? TIA

Get your own gravatar by visiting gravatar.com Bentley
#4. July 17th, 2008, at 5:23 PM.

Hi Patricia,
Gypsum is basically the same thing as ‘Lime’ (Calcium carbonate), and is used to prevent the pH from dropping too low in worm bedding. Generally, this would only really be an issue with peat moss bedding since it is quite acidic – coir on the other hand is neutral as far as I know.

I personally think there is too much emphasis placed on the use of Lime in worm bedding. Composting worms are very tolerant of a wide range of pH, and I’ve actually read that they would actually prefer pH 5 over pH 7 or 8 – which kinda makes sense when you think about the sort of habitat (compost heaps etc) they live in.

Get your own gravatar by visiting gravatar.com DeAna
#5. September 30th, 2008, at 7:54 PM.

Hi Bentley
Hadn’t heard of adding Molasses before – will give it a try. Say, I have been running the tea thru a sieve prior to bottling, as that way it can be sprayed on plant foliage and not plug-up the sprayer. Vegetable plants seems to love to take in the nutrients this way and it also repells various leaf-eating pests. I’ve always wondered, however, if I might be sieving too many microbes out by doing this. Any thoughts?
DeAna

Get your own gravatar by visiting gravatar.com Bentley
#6. October 1st, 2008, at 2:13 PM.

Hi DeAna,
Unless you are using a decent filter, you won’t be losing too many microbes. It is important to remember that most of them are incredibly tiny, so the holes of most sieves would seem like vast open gateways to them.
;-)

Get your own gravatar by visiting gravatar.com mary
#7. February 22nd, 2009, at 9:11 PM.

Thank you for such complete and easy to understand instructions for worm tea. Raising the worms is easy but my worm mentors who gifted me with this bin were not able to help me know how to use it. You have taken care of that detail and now I will send the information back to them. A nice ‘payment’ for a special gift.
Also, thanks for the info on the mites. It just shows that every creature has problems.
Thanks. Mary

Get your own gravatar by visiting gravatar.com Bentley
#8. February 24th, 2009, at 4:09 PM.

Thanks, Mary – glad to help!
8)

Get your own gravatar by visiting gravatar.com Mark
#9. June 16th, 2009, at 9:53 PM.

Just a clarification, gypsum is calcium sulfate, not ground lime (calcium carbonate). If you are organic, you can’t use drywall, also gypsum, because of the possible chemical contamination. Best to use mined gypsum.

Mark

Get your own gravatar by visiting gravatar.com Kiomars sayyadian
#10. January 27th, 2010, at 5:17 AM.

I am not able to grow fungi in my compost tea. I use best vermicompost and add some seedcotten meal, mollases and fish powder or without fish powder. Finally I can see many bacteria and protozoa but without any fungi. would you please help me Why fungi not able to boost in this solution ?

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